The Buggy Side of the Dog

Elusive Aurora (Borealis)

2012-01-25T16:57:00.010-09:00

About 10pm, Tuesday night, in spite of frigid temperatures, news of a stronger-than-average solar burst enticed me out of doors in search of the elusive Aurora. I say "elusive" because in the past few years I've noticed a trend toward fewer Aurora sightings and, even when spotted, the color (usually just green) has been less vibrant, even milky.

I also say "elusive" because in the ten years I've lived in this village, I've never been able to capture the Northern Lights photographically. And even these meager shots in the dark (literally) were taken without a tripod, so they're nothing to brag about from a technical standpoint.

Still, I feel like one of those Sasquatch hunters who has finally snagged a clear, indisputable photo of his quarry! I caught the Aurora in my own back yard! How terrific is that?

Was it worth kneeling in the snow?

...in the dark?

...@ 47 below?

...while brushing frost off my eyelashes and nose?

Completely!

And a fun little factoid about wearing snow pants and a heavy parka is that no one can see the pajamas underneath! :)

So if you're interested in the Aurora Borealis, here are some extremely informative sites that delve deeper into both the scientific and photographic aspects of the subject. I found graphs that illustrate and explain the dearth of aurora sightings I've noticed over the last few years. How validating! :)

Aurora Hunter

Aurora Forecast-Geophysical Institute

The Aurora Page

Hunting The Great Alaskan Aurora

And if you want to see spectacular photographs and an awesome video of Tuesday night's aurora activity in Canada and the UK...check this out! (scroll all the way to the bottom for the video)

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2091117/The-midnight-phoenix-rises-Biggest-solar-storms-seven-years-create-spectacular-northern-lights.html

Equinox Paradox

2012-01-23T17:18:00.015-09:00

A funny thing (always) happens on the way to the Equinox.

Just when the sun begins to creep a few degrees toward Spring (and you think things are going to warm up), that's when the real cold sets in.

Wind	from the SSE (160 degrees) at 7 MPH (6 KT)
Visibility	10 mile(s)
Sky conditions	clear
Temperature	-47 F (-44 C)
Windchill	-70 F (-57 C)

More of the same is forecast for the week.

Winter never relents without a fight and it'll be stirring things up for months to come.

Fortunately, for me, staying warm won't be a problem. Nothing is toastier than a traditional fur-lined parka and I've got one (with a brand new cover)!

Quyanaq to Kate for the beautiful new atikæuk! You did an excellent job!

(By the way, the photo at the top of the page was taken with my nifty new camera that takes cool panoramic photos. Click on the pic to see a larger image).

Moonlight? Spotlight? Or what?

2011-10-26T20:47:00.003-08:00

A little clarification.

That's a snow fence in the foreground, the shadowed riverbank just beyond, and the frozen river is that white space between the two. Beyond that, it's all tundra, flat tundra, without trees or any other sort of obstruction, which makes that sliver of laser-bright luminescence all the more noticeable...and strange.

In all the years that I've lived in the Arctic, I've never seen anything like this. There have been plenty of clear nights in which the moon illuminated the entire snow-covered expanse creating an ocean-like reflection as far as the eye could see.

This night was different.

It's as if a spotlight was trained on one, specific, amazingly limited area.

Very pretty. But kind of eerie.

Sort of Twilight Zone-ish...without the pesky aliens.

At least, as far as I know.

Snowbow or Icebow?

2011-10-10T16:50:00.002-08:00

Not a rainbow, not a sun-dog, this bow was the handiwork of Mr. Sun...painting ribbons with ice crystals across our northern October sky.

Of course, Old Man Winter had a hand in it too.

The colors were much more vivid than these photos reveal.

Snowbow or icebow?
Either way, it was pretty cool!

Good Intentions

2011-09-29T19:55:00.004-08:00

Oh, what a tangled web we weave when first we plant…and then we leave.

My intentions were good.

1. Plant seeds.

2. Harvest vegetables.

3. Stock freezer.

4. Cook like someone living on the road system. (Cha-ching!)

Sadly, somewhere between planting and cooking things went terribly wrong.

I planted too late, didn’t have any stakes, and was forced to leave for vacation with the disappointing knowledge that I’d likely return to find my mini-garden full of sticks and dried up leaves.

What a surprise to find an overgrown jungle crowding the pane of my classroom window, thick ropey stems straining toward sunlight, leaves pressing for position against the glass.

Not only had the plants survived, they had thrived!

It seems I’d underestimated the botanical will to live.

Of course, no one was there to pollinate the blossoms, so the profusion of foliage was just that—a matted mess—lots of green, but nothing to glean.

Heavy sigh.

Sometimes I feel like a walking idiom. I bite off more than I can chew while simultaneously lighting both ends of my candle with all those sizzling hot irons that I keep in the fire.

And I plant seeds that I don't have time to care for.

It’s hard not to see the parallel in other areas of my life and such were my heavy thoughts as I snipped stems and tossed the tangle into the trash.

Imagine my astonishment upon finding these...

My heart did a little happy dance. :)

So maybe there’s hope for a walking idiom after all?

You Snooze....You Lose

2010-11-20T15:37:00.003-09:00

Last night I was exhausted.

I don't think I've ever thanked God for a Friday with more heartfelt gratitude. Juggling girl's conditioning sessions, GED instruction, and managing the student store alongside regular teacherly responsibilities has my brain and body reeling. When my head finally hit the pillow I was, as they say, dead to the world.

Most nights, that would be just fine, but just a few minutes ago I trekked over to the post office and discovered that my much-needed snooze session came with a price. Apparently, there was a polar bear in town and it was actually right outside my window!

Being dead to the world, I had no clue.

This is my ninth school year in this village. In that time, this is maybe the fourth polar bear that has ventured down from the coast. However, it is the first time that one has wandered among the houses. I heard from neighbors that the outside dogs didn't even bark (smart dogs...they know when to keep a low profile). No one knew the bear was there until one poor teenage girl, walking all alone, rounded a building and found herself face-to-face with what could have been her worst nightmare....only yards away.

Don't worry. The quick-thinking girl jumped into a nearby house immediately. She's fine, though understandably shaken. I heard that the bear was walking toward her as she scrambled into the building. I shudder to think what would have happened if one of our little ones had been in the same position. Would they have had the presence of mind to get away or would they have just stood there gaping or crying, frozen in terror?

Hopefully, we'll never have to learn the answer to that question, but there are murmurings that this bear was not alone (two more sets of tracks have been found), so it's a concern.

Polar bears are not easy for me to write about. On one hand, they are magnificent animals that fill me with curiosity and admiration. I would have been thrilled to see a polar bear sniffing around my window! I think most people feel the same way. I was completely mesmerized by the video about Klondike and Snow (the polar bear cubs that were raised at the Denver Zoo years ago) and I am envious of those who live in the coastal villages where bear watching is commonplace.

Unfortunately, when you live in the Arctic, there is always the other hand to think about. In spite of all the movies and commercials and photographs-in-emails that depict bears as cute, cuddly, fun-loving creatures...or even aloof, independent ones...the bottom line is that they are wild animals with no sense of right or wrong or sentimentality beyond survival. A hungry, wandering bear might prefer to eat fish or a seal, but if there doesn't happen to be any fish or seals around at the moment...a defenseless dog or even a person would certainly be fair game.

That leaves me with very mixed feelings...especially now that one has crossed the line.

Finally!

2010-09-27T21:04:00.001-08:00

After weeks of waiting and whining, we finally got a little snow. For the last three or four days, my morning walk to school has been a little crunchier, a little whiter, and I'm loving it! Even the lake and river are showing signs of freeze-up. Maybe fall ice fishing will commence on time after all.

Another long-awaited event (at least for me) occurred just last night. The clouds finally parted momentarily and I was able to catch a brief glimpse of Jupiter and its moons! I wasn't sure I'd be able to see anything. I don't have a powerful telescope at my disposal, but I do have some nifty (and gargantuan) binoculars.

Jupiter was easy enough to see with the naked eye, but I could only see the moons through my binoculars and (surprisingly) through my camera.

Catching sight of this very cool cluster made the cold legs and frozen fingers completely worth it!

Wind	from the WSW (250 degrees) at 13 MPH (11 KT)
Visibility	10 mile(s)
Sky conditions	mostly clear
Temperature	19.0 F (-7.2 C)
Windchill	6 F (-14 C)
Dew Point	17.1 F (-8.3 C)
Relative Humidity	91%

I know this is not impressive photography. I wasn't really expecting to get great pictures, but I thought it couldn't hurt to try.

I had no tripod and just set my Sony DSC-H50 on ISO. I know there are probably settings that I could have used to get better photos, but I am admitting complete ignorance here. I have not read my owner's manual and have not experimented with settings much.

And still, my little camera does the best it can do under the circumstances. (Great little camera that it is).

This was the best shot I could get without a tripod (I held my breath a lot).

And this is a cropped view of the same shot. It's not pretty, I know, but it (not-so-clearly) shows Jupiter with two moons on the right and one on the far left. I think I saw three moons on the right through my binos, but I can't be completely sure because...well...I'm fairly ignorant of astronomy too.

I'm still happy. I saw Jupiter...and it's moons....more than I've ever seen before.

And there's fresh snow on the ground!

Life is good.

Wet

2010-09-14T17:46:00.003-08:00

Even today, a glorious, blue-sky morning bursting with sunshine and windswept clouds tinged pink and gold, the first morning in over a month possessing the faintest hint of fall, even today the air is thick and heavy and wet.

It is yet another in a long string of days laden with the bane of my existence, one hundred percent humidity. As I walk to school each morning, I feel the oppressive weight of it as I breathe in and out. It clings to my skin and clothes and every other available surface. I won’t even mention what a snarling tangle it makes of my hair.

There should be frost on the berries, but instead they’re just wet, wet, wet. Everything is wet and dripping and has been for weeks. September usually brings our first substantial snowfall. Sometimes it melts away, but more often it remains, white powder piled up on fresh sheaths of ice skinning the surfaces of ponds and lakes and eventually the river...just the way I like it.

I know this isn’t much to complain about while Southern regions are still scorching (and plenty humid as well), but…this just isn’t right. It’s not the Arctic autumn that I know and love.

Students have been asking, “Man, when’s it ever gonna get cold?”

I shrug sympathetically and admit that I’m wondering the same thing. I remind them that break-up came late this year, that the river ice didn’t go out until the middle of June and most of the summer was cloudy and cold. August brought lots of rain ensuring muddy boots and juicy berries. The seasons seem to have shifted a bit, abandoning the predictable timing of things that some of us so obviously crave.

September’s chill usually brings dryness. Humidity, trapped as frost or snow, crunches underfoot and leaves the air so fresh and crisp that it seems to snap. It’s something I look forward to—a lot. This year is just different. For now, first frost is still an elusive prospect as we wade through day after day of thick humid air...

...and more wet.

Buoyed by Breeze

2010-07-25T12:37:00.010-08:00

It's already the last day of July!

How can that be?

Where did all the sand at the top of my vacation hour glass go?

Somehow spring slipped into summer, yet the transition never made it to my blog. I've got some serious catching up to do! And today I'll take the first step.

The first half of July was relatively cool with average temps in the forties...my kind of weather! But over the last couple of weeks, the Buggy Side has seriously lived up to its name.

It's been buggy and muggy and way too warm with nary a breeze to rustle even the most delicate sliver of grass. That lack of wind is significant because, without a stirring of at least 10 mph, mosquitoes become relentless. I have reluctantly been spending a lot of my time indoors.

But today wild winds from the West have energized the village!

Children are running around like parka squirrels, happy to be bug-free and cool. People are smiling as they scurry here and there on foot or four wheeler. The lake water is choppy with white caps breaking toward the shore. Little fluffs of arctic cotton float on the air, building up here and there, like summertime drifts of snow.

I walked into the post office earlier today, happy to be out, even ecstatic to be swayed by 36 mph gusts. The first thing the clerk said to me was, "Thank goodness we finally got some wind!"

At least for today, there is a lightness afoot, a reprieve, a respite from the sticky, sweaty, suffocating stillness of the last two wearing weeks.

Of course, that crazy wind is kicking up sand which stings the skin, irritates the eyes, and fills the nose and mouth with an unpleasant grit.

But, for today, I'm completely satisfied with the trade.

Cold War

2010-06-05T16:31:00.000-08:00

The transition from autumn to winter is a gradual, practically graceful, thing. Like two old friends on a quiet walk, no matter how much fun they have conversing, the time for parting ways inevitably comes. Winter winds up. Autumn falls silently away. The seasonal shift is gentle, barely noticeable.

But...the springtime changing of the guard tends to be characterized by a very different tone. Unwilling to relinquish control, Winter’s grip is strong, but Spring is youthful and wages a ferocious battle of its own.

With snarling teeth, it devours Winter's hold bite after bite...

...while the Sun aides the arrogant upstart with pounding rays both day and night.

Still, Winter’s allies, Wind and Cold, keep the old one in the fight.

But in the end, things never change....

Winter's loss is Spring's delight.

What can you do with a sled @ +32?

2010-05-27T18:31:00.005-08:00

Babies On Board

2010-05-23T15:40:00.015-08:00

I flew to Barrow last week.

It was just for the day…out on the morning flight…back in the afternoon.

I said good-bye to a friend and hello to some much-needed groceries. It was a short trip, but a great day. Chinese food for lunch with a much-loved friend and a full fridge when I get home…how much better can it get?

While waiting for the flight back to Atqasuk, I was steadily entertained by the antics of two toddlers soon to be passengers on the same flight.

Bush planes provide passenger and freight transport, but not much else. There are no attendants distributing magazines or snacks; there is no in-flight movie to pass the time.

But…there is always the window.

And sometimes passengers put on a show without even trying.

I lucked out, having babies on board, because the passenger strapped in next to me was rather short on conversation.

Snow Bath of a Different Kind

2010-05-15T14:24:00.006-08:00

So...

I'd just finished observing the snow bunting giving itself a snow bath (previous post). I walked through the school to the front deck. It was a glorious day and the front deck of the school offers a great eastern view of the tundra. There are caribou out there...if only I had the lens to prove it!

Anyway, as I stood there, camera in hand, breathing in the fresh, frosty air I heard the slow scraping sound of a sled on the icy road below. Sure enough, a sweet pair come into view. A devoted young mommy and her extremely curious three-year-old son are enjoying a peaceful stroll in the bright spring sunshine.

It made me sigh inside to witness such a wholly unspoiled scene painted upon a canvas of pure white, simple and clean.

Then...

BAM!

Teenagers tumble into view.

And a snow bath...of a different kind...ensues!

Pounce...

Bounce...

Denounce...

Flounce!

No preening or cleaning with this snow bath, but there were plenty of ruffled feathers!

And you'll notice the little guy observed it all...significantly out of reach.

Me too.

Snow Bath!

2010-05-11T11:04:00.011-08:00

While my southern friends are already contending with heat in the 90s and humidity that melts the body away from the soul, in Atqasuk we are experiencing breezes of 16-24 mph and windchills as low as -11F. If Forrest Gump had jogged this far north, I feel certain that he would have said, "Arctic springtime is like a box of chocolates...you never know what you're gonna get."

And he'd be exactly right.

As I look out my window, every day brings something different. Today, swirling snow is gathering up in puffy piles on the window sill and lightly dusting the crusty shell that has formed over our still-frozen ground. Other days (as above) the air is cold, but the sky is clear. Sunshine toasts the rooftops and warms the surface of the snow so that treading upon it produces a little crunch.

On the edge of my roof, just outside my window, a lone snowbird is staging a concert...totally free...for anyone who will listen. I have to smile as he puffs his chest and belts out his lively tune. It's better than any lullaby (or alarm clock) I know.

Aside from ravens, snow buntings are the first birds to return to the North Slope in spring. After months (and months) of silence across the tundra, the song of the snowbird is a welcome sign that break-up is on its way.

Though I've been waking to the cheerful sound of snow buntings for several weeks, the first one that I actually spotted was on a rooftop behind the school. He was too far away for really nice photos, but watching him vigorously enjoying his snow bath was a special treat that made me smile all the way home.

Preen...

Clean...

Pristine!

You might be a bush Alaskan if...

2010-04-27T22:55:00.004-08:00

Living hundreds of miles away from a clothing store, most of mine are purchased over the internet.

Long live Amazon.com and all of its cousins!

Being able to buy clothes online is a blessing and it's usually a relatively easy process, but...pants are a problem.

Invariably, I choose items that are just wrong for one reason or another. It doesn't matter that I know my size. Even if I order the same brand and same size...something is always...hinky. And returning is a real pain-in-the-neck. I've done it, but don't like it much. There is a hefty stack of ill-fitting jeans in my closet to illustrate the point.

So...shirts I've got.

Socks are plentiful.

But, at this moment in time, I am pants-poor in the worst way.

I have put off buying pants until I can get down to Fairbanks or some other such city with actual dressing rooms and garments that I can touch and try on for myself. What luxury awaits!

Last year, I didn't get down to Fairbanks and what's left of my "trouser-wear" is on its last leg...uh..so to speak.

Last night, I was up late patching holes in my khaki-colored jeans by hand.

Now, it's embarrassing enough to admit that my clothes are so worn that I have to patch them. I'm not a little kid, after all. I haven't exactly been climbing trees or sliding into second base. I have no idea how I've managed to reduce heavy denim to thread-bare rags, but what's even more embarrassing is that I didn't have any actual patches, so I had to make some out of an old kitchen towel.

Yes, I said kitchen towel.

Yes, there were images of roosters printed all over it, but I did take care to place the patches on the inside where the roosters wouldn't show. At least, I don't think they show.

It was late, I was tired, and the lighting in the room was dim. Sewing by hand was slow and tedious, but by the time I finished up the last patch, I was feeling a little proud of myself for saving those raggedy khakis.

I felt rather resourceful.

Practically handy.

And I had to smile at the notion that my little patching job was a very "bush Alaskan" thing to do.

Even if it didn't involve any duct tape.

Sometimes I think being Alaskan has as much to do with the state of a person's mind as the state in their address.

Ch-Ch-Changes

2010-04-11T14:41:00.004-08:00

Until this weekend, springtime has been a reality (pretty much) in name only.

Then... yesterday ambient temperatures shot from -20F to +1F above zero. I thought that was really something, but this morning I opened the door and was slapped in the face with a major blast of warm air sporting +28F degrees!

Now, I know that doesn't sound very warm, but after months and months of subzero temperatures, twenty-eight degrees above zero is practically toasty.

And signs of spring are finally creeping into view.

Very nice.

Testing Terror Turns Tasty!

2010-04-09T15:43:00.005-08:00

This has been one loooooooong week of state proficiency testing.

Practice tests, official tests, make-up tests...they're all done and should be packed up and on a plane as I type.

Thank goodness!

After such a week as this, ice cream makes perfect sense, even when it's still -6 degrees outside.

What an excellent way to celebrate and soothe those testing jitters!

The Joy of K-12 Schools

2010-04-02T13:32:00.006-08:00

There are challenges associated with meeting the educational needs of diverse students regardless of the setting. Having experience as a student, as well as a teacher, in both rural K-12 schools and larger metropolitan schools, I know there are pros and cons on either side of the equation.

But on days like these...

...I really enjoy being in a rural K-12 school. Kids of all ages participate right alongside each other. No one is too cool to have a good time (not even teachers).

As a part of our celebration of the Inupiat Value of Humor, our Inupiat teacher planned a few fun cultural games. The photos above and the video below highlight a traditional (and challenging) activity intended to strengthen ice walking skills.

Though this is an inland village and seal hunting is not common here, this is still a coastal culture and one never knows when such a skill might come in handy.

From what I hear, the cans we used on this day were much larger than the soup cans used by previous generations, but I guess you've got to start somewhere and these guys did pretty well!

We also played a game called Akuu, Akuu. This activity is sort of a combination of Red Rover and Simon Says with a little Inupiat flare thrown in. Instead of holding hands, teams take turns calling across to one another, asking for particular players to come over, performing or acting out a certain character.

For example, the student team called out, "Akuu, Akuu. Send Lindsay over like a walrus." Then sixth grade teacher, Lindsay, had to cross the gym to the student side, acting like a walrus.

Oh, yeah.

I forgot to explain that participants aren't allowed to smile or laugh as they cross the gym acting like who-knows-what and the opposing team does whatever they can to make them laugh--of course.

If successful, Lindsay wins the towel for her team (and she was). If she's not, like if she cracks up (which she didn't), then she remains with the opposing team.

Students are much stricter about the smile thing than the teachers are. Teachers seem to be conditioned to reward good effort and often bend the rules in favor of the other team.

Students have no such compulsion.

In a final push for victory over the teachers, the student team called out for Neal, our third grade teacher, to come over "doing The Worm." If you aren't familiar with this particular dance move (and I use that term loosely), here is a demonstration performed by one of my students.

And here is Neal, God bless him, who cannot do The Worm, but he does something that I think is much better. At least, it's a lot funnier. I don't know if this will be as hilarious when you don't know the people involved, but I've watched it over and over and it still cracks me up.

The Dark Side of Sunlight

2010-03-31T08:59:00.003-08:00

There is nothing more effervescent than springtime sunshine across the tundra!

With daylight hours stretching well beyond ten o'clock in recent days, children of all ages find making hay much more appealing than hitting it.

In other words, there's no time like springtime for staying out late and soaking up rays...even if it drives your parents and teachers crazy!

Yet, however strange it might sound, all that sunshine does have a dark side.

While it splashes itself across the seamless white tundra and packs a visual wallop that demands protective eyewear, sunlight (this time of year) doesn't actually carry that much warmth.

It slyly disguises still-frigid temperatures with its flashy smile and those who are fooled by its brightness often pay a hefty price.

It's still cold.

And no one knows that better than this fifteen-year-old girl who made the mistake of riding a skidoo wearing only warm-up pants instead of insulated snow pants.

Her frostbite wound was painful at first, but is healing well.

Lesson learned...I hope.

Favorite Foto Friday

2010-03-26T15:49:00.007-08:00

My living room window ledge is about seven feet above the ground. There isn't much chance that anyone, least of all a child, would be able to reach the window without a ladder.

However, one Sunday morning, after the 40 mph winds had "calmed" down to the thirties, I heard this small band of snow jumpers playing outside and was soon surprised to hear a tapping on my window. When I pulled back the curtain, I found three thirsty wild things standing on a fresh drift, asking for a drinks of water.

I didn't mind.

Playing in the snow can be hard work, after all.

Sweet Sunshine Sliding

2010-03-25T21:14:00.008-08:00

What is wrong with me?

Though I'm sure everyone feels the time crunch in one way or another, there are plenty of teachers out there who still manage to blog well & blog often in spite of having demanding jobs and full lives beyond cyberspace. FC over at Pure Florida makes daily (yes, I said daily) blogging look easy.

How does he do that?

I'm pretty sure it involves waking up much earlier than I am willing to or may even be capable of, so the hope of me becoming a daily blogger is probably nil...at least not until retirement (and even then the odds aren't good).

At any rate, here's my semi-biweekly post skidding in just under the wire before Favorite Foto Friday begins calling for attention.

The last couple of weeks have been brimming with blue skies and sunshine. Add to that mountain ranges of pushed snow and you've got the perfect spring time recreation.

There's nothing better than a slippery snow slide on a sub-zero afternoon! At least...if you're not sure about that...just ask one of these little cuties.

What a blast!

Favorite Foto Friday

2010-03-18T20:33:00.003-08:00

When I decided to post a favorite photo on Fridays, I didn't intend it as a fall back or substitute for actual posting. But time for blogging and internet connections that'll support it don't seem to working in sync right now. So...for now..this is what I've got.

This amazing scene adorned my window about a week ago. I have no idea how frost can form in so many different shapes and patterns...all within inches of each other. When I loaded this shot onto Flickr, I titled it Frosty Fantasia. Being uncertain of the exact meaning of the word "fantasia," I looked it up.

fantasia |fanˈtā zh ə; fantəˈzēə|
noun
a musical composition with a free form and often an improvisatory style.
• a musical composition that is based on several familiar tunes.
• a thing that is composed of a mixture of different forms or styles.

If music could be frozen...wouldn't it look something like this?

Favorite Foto Friday

2010-03-12T20:19:00.005-09:00

Some bloggers have Wordless Wednesdays. I've been toying with the idea of Foto Fridays as a similar tradition.

Waddaya think?

Cool Things 2 Do @ -42

2010-03-04T08:36:00.006-09:00

The weather this morning is amazing...not beautiful and clear, but warm and calm.

In fact, over the last two days, temperatures have risen about 45 degrees! At the moment, we are hovering around zero with NO WIND! That's practically a heat wave considering that less than a week ago we were sitting at -49 with 35 mph winds!

Oddly enough, during all that wind and cold weather, school was only canceled once. Of course, teachers and staff were still expected to attend on that day, so at lunch time our fearless leader decided that she wanted to see some of the oddities of the Arctic for herself.

This short video shows water being thrown from a cup and instantly freezing in the air (that happens in the first milli-second of the video...so don't look away or you'll miss it) as well as bubbles freezing into a rubbery consistency (I say this repeatedly on the video...when will I ever learn to keep my mouth shut while recording???).

Just a couple of cool things to do at negative forty-two. :)

Whose side are we on, anyway?

2010-02-27T18:24:00.011-09:00

(Team mates face off on the court)

Life races by at such a frantic pace.

Events that garnered attention only a few hours ago are quickly trumped by the red-hot event of the moment. I’ve been trying (for days) to write about the blizzard that blew through last weekend and I guess I’ll eventually get to it, but the basketball games of this weekend have edged their way to the top of the queue.

Last night, after a rip-roaring evening of high school basketball, I walked home under a (long awaited) crystal-clear sky. Bright white moonlight splashed right through the big dipper over my head onto every snow-covered rooftop in the village. Smoke stacks billowed their hot breath into an easterly wind. My face was cold, really cold, but my head was full of thoughts that left me feeling warm inside, almost down to my toes.

There is something mysterious, maybe even beautiful, about basketball in a bush village. The fact that it exists at all is a kind of miracle because it is impractical and unpredictable on almost every level. The unexpected is often the only thing you can expect with any certainty. This weekend the scoreboard clock ceased to function during the third quarter of a game, so the person running the clock had to use a stopwatch and announce the time on a microphone....and nobody complained! Referees and coaches tried to keep the players on track and aware of game time, but once I overheard a player respond to a whistle by running up to her coach and asking, "Is that the end of the game?"

Unlike small towns on the road system, games between bush village schools require flights. That’s expensive (really expensive). So games are few and home games are fewer. Opportunities for parents and community members to actually see their children play are rare and visiting teams usually play without the luxury of fans to cheer them on.

Games always require at least one overnight stay (bad weather may necessitate longer). That means baggage and sleeping bags will adorn the floors of classrooms around the school.

This weekend it meant providing dinner on Friday night, breakfast and lunch on Saturday, and snacks in-between. It takes a lot of work, both paid and voluntary, but anyone who attends one of these events can tell you that the money, time, and effort are all well spent.

Somewhere in the mix of the challenges and inconvenience interesting and sometimes surprising things spring forth. Things like kindness and generosity and respect and ingenuity.

How do you put a price tag on those?

This weekend, the opposing school turned up with a small girl’s team and only two boys. Their boy’s team automatically forfeited due to lack of players and that could have been the end to a very expensive story—but it wasn’t.

Players from our Eagles teams, both boys and girls, willingly donned Qavvik jerseys and made up the difference on the court. And they didn’t stop there. Not only did they wear the other team’s uniforms…the borrowed players put their whole hearts into winning…for the other side.

(beginning the first overtime)

One game went into double overtime and was won in the final five seconds with a single shot by one of our boys wearing the Qavvik’s colors. Spectators enthusiastically cheering for both teams went wild at the buzzer. Fans, players, and coaches all agreed that it was one of the best games they’d ever seen. No one seemed to mind (or even remember) that the credit for the win went to the other team.

It was just fun.

And that makes me smile.

I think it says something about a game, a school, and a community when such cooperativeness can be fostered alongside the drive to win. Of course our teams want to win as much as any other, but sometimes basketball really is about the simple joy of getting to play.

What a Hiatus!

2010-02-23T20:19:00.008-09:00

Wow!

I'm not sure how it happened, but a whole month has flown by without my noticing. How does one lose a month, exactly?

Part of the problem, I think, might be the weather. I guess that sounds ridiculous. How does one blame a bad case of blog neglect on the weather, exactly?

Well, maybe one can't, but I'm certainly going to try.

Here's my thinking...

1. No internet @ home = blogging done @ school.

2. Cold, windy, blizzardy weather = staying warm & cozy @ home.

3. Warm & cozy @ home = less blogging

(a month less, to be exact)

And there you have it.

Procrastination elementally justified. Works for me!

But whether being snowed in, snowed under, or just plain snowed is a reasonable excuse or not, the truth is that I miss this space. I miss chatting with friends and sharing what's happening...however trivial and small those happenings might be.

So...I'm going to dig out all the photos and thoughts that have been buried and get this blog back in business.

And if, at some point, things begin to drift up again...

I'll just have to find a bigger shovel!

Worth the Wait

2010-01-24T09:01:00.008-09:00

Around lunchtime, on Monday, the long-anticipated buzz began...

"The sun is here!"

"Can you see the sun?"

"You should see the sun!"

Emails sizzled, hot and fast, across the network.

On-the-ball observers spread the word door-to-door.

Faculty, staff, and students scurried toward south-facing windows, fingers and noses pressed against the glass.

All this...just to catch a fleeting glimpse, to witness that first blazing moment when the earth tilts its head and the sun shimmers a hundred shades of pink and red and yellow and orange upon a canvas of frozen white.

Maybe the angle of rays through miles of atmosphere magnifies the glory.

Or maybe weeks upon weeks of darkness simply exaggerates the effect.

Regardless of the reason, our moment in the sun is dramatic and invigorating.

And the majesty of that moment is...worth the wait.

Magic Number

2010-01-09T21:08:00.006-09:00

It seems ironic that our coldest time of year is when the sun is on the rise. At the risk of sounding like an old fisherman telling a tale, I still have to say that this isn't as cold as it's been in years past.

These are tonight's stats with a 9 mph wind:

Temperature	-43 F (-42 C)
Windchill	-68 F (-56 C)

I remember school being dismissed a few years ago because, not only was the ambient temperature around -60, the windchill was -84. And I'm sure lifelong residents would have no trouble topping that.

But, forty below seems to be the magic number that brings all things mechanical to a screeching halt. The school bus is relegated to the bus barn because metal parts tend to snap. Bush planes aren't supposed to be in the air at -40 or colder and I can't say I'd want to be on one that was.

Moisture from furnaces crystallizes and hangs in the air like a veil.

Without the buzz of four-wheelers and snow machines, the village might settle into an eerie sort of silence.

Except...

In temperatures like these, fabrics containing polyester stiffen and make crinkling sounds when the wearer moves. A group of children in store-bought coats sound like a bunch of potato chip bags being crumpled together.

Nothing silent about that.

Even the snow is noisy...like treading on Styrofoam, it squeaks and creaks with every step.

I just let Rudy out for the last time tonight. When he came back inside five minutes later, his teeth were actually chattering! I had to laugh. It just isn't often that one hears the sound of chattering teeth emanating from a dog.

It seems that Peace and Quiet, those long-standing friends, spend most of the year together. But when the mercury drops to forty below, Quiet looks for some warmer weather.

Midnight Madness

2010-01-01T18:58:00.006-09:00

The night began quiet enough with a full moon gleaming down on rooftops covered in sleepy, silent snow. A coziness seemed to blanket the village on this eve of our fresh new year.

At least, that's how it looked from my window.

But 'round about midnight, the madness began. How else might one explain the willing pilgrimage of young and young-at-heart toward the southern end of town despite a frigid windchill of -41 F?

Madness! There's no other word for it!

Well, except maybe..."ooooh."

And, "aaaaah!"

Whether by hoof or Honda or half-ton pick-up...all moved toward the mesmerizing light.

Was it worth the cold fingers, chapped cheeks, and runny nose?

Absolutely!

It's madness, I tell you! Madness!

And...a big "thank you" goes out to the two brothers who generously orchestrate this grand fireworks display each year. What a gift to our community!

Happy New Year to all of you on the Buggy Side...and beyond!

Darkness Subsiding

2009-12-27T14:39:00.005-09:00

Winter darkness is on its way out.

I took this photo on Christmas day while standing in the doorway of my apartment. Rudy had just ventured out for his afternoon scratch-n-sniff session and, in spite of the biting cold (that haze is the humidity that escaped from the house when I opened the door), I stood there for a moment, admiring the sapphire tones and azure hues of our southern sky in December.

Reminds me of a mood ring that I had in junior high.

Compostionally, this is no great shot, I know. It would have been better if I'd walked down toward the lake, away from the telephone poles and power lines, but the idea of bundling up and getting out there was less than appealing. I settled for a cluttered shot and hurried my dog along, so I could shut the door and get warm again.

Then I realized that the winter solstice had come and gone without my even mentioning it. Not that it's a big deal, exactly, but it does mark the point when we begin to gradually gain light again.

And that's a good thing.

Toward the end of January, the sun will peak above the horizon for the first time in about sixty days and by spring it will be our constant companion again. But, for now, this is the light we see...in the afternoon...when it's not cloudy...or blowing snow...like today.

Wind from the E at 30 MPH (26 KT) gusting to 33 MPH (29 KT) Visibility 5 mile(s)
Weather Blowing snow
Precipitation last hour A trace
Temperature -4.9 F (-20.5 C)
Windchill -32 F (-36 C)
Dew Point -8.9 F (-22.7 C)
Relative Humidity 82%

Looks peaceful, doesn't it?

Bizzy Izzy

2009-12-21T00:02:00.003-09:00

I'm pet sitting for my neighbor during the holidays. Poor Izzy is all alone except for the time I spend with her (and her toys). I know that, being a cat, she is probably asleep most of the time, but I decided to give her something interesting to do between my visits...just in case.

I knew she'd never be able to resist this...

How We Eat...(Part One)

2009-12-20T11:26:00.011-09:00

How do we get food? How much does food cost? What types of foods do we eat in the Arctic?

I get these questions a lot.

And, although I try to answer them in a straightforward way, it's never as easy to do as it seems that it would be. Like many things about life in a bush village, there is no single answer to the question of securing supplies. Personal experiences and opinions vary greatly. There never seems to be one final, authoritative piece of knowledge for anything. If I had to nail down bush wisdom in a sentence it would probably go something like this.

"This is absolutely the way it is...except when it's not."

In fact, part of the local dialect uses word combinations like sometimes/always, sometimes/never, or always/never. For example, one might hear, "I sometimes always go fishing in October." Or, "I sometimes never find any fish in that stream."

Strange phrases to newbie ears, I know.

Maybe phrases such as these are more of an accidental colloquialism than a purposeful use of vocabulary, but I have to wonder if the habit of combining what seems like opposing terms is actually rooted in the ambiguity that one faces in a land of extremes such as the Arctic.

Still, when people ask questions, they don't usually enjoy indefinite jargon like sometimes and maybe. They want facts. And, since facts about the Arctic usually travel in elusive tangled herds rather than standing alone, I often resort to brief responses that shed a little light here and there rather than attempting total illumination all at once. That's not nearly as satisfying as absolutes, I know, but no one walks away empty-handed either.

One of the first lessons that I learned after moving to Atqasuk is that generalities can lead one astray and so can specifics from too many sources.

Arctic knowledge is sort of hexagonal (at best). There are at least six sides to every story, multiple pieces of wisdom to cover every problem, each one valid and correct under the right circumstances. And, yes, it can be just as tricky as it sounds.

So what does all that have to do with how we eat?

Quite a lot.

As a new teacher moving to an Arctic village, I was faced with the challenge of getting food to my new home from over 5,000 miles away. I was given several suggestions, all from well-meaning veteran residents of the Slope.

Some said, "Send as much as you can from home."

Others said, "Wait until you get to Anchorage and send everything up from there."

Still others said, "Wait until you get to Barrow. It will be more expensive, but you can get everything you need."

And still others said, "Don't worry with all that shipping. We'll make a big order as a group before school starts."

Hmm.

I spent literally hundreds of dollars shipping things like green beans and pasta from New Orleans (two months before I moved). I spent hundreds more shipping things like dish soap and toilet paper from Anchorage on my way up to the North Slope. By the time I got to Barrow, I had almost no money left. I remember going to the AC Store and filling a cooler with perishable items and, for the first time, becoming acutely aware of their weight. Ugh! Dragging the cooler, my luggage, and my dog crate to the plane, I received my first lesson about Arctic life and food.

Weight is a very big deal.

When I arrived in Atqasuk, I found that none of the boxes that I'd mailed up months ago had arrived. Well, plenty of books and school supplies were there, but nothing I could actually eat. I had only the items in my cooler which meant that butter, cream cheese, and milk would have to sustain me until the rest of my boxes arrived.

Another hmm.

At that time, thankfully, Atqasuk still had a community store. There wasn't a whole lot in it, but that was okay because I didn't have any cash. I remember writing an out-of-state check for a few boxes of macaroni and cheese. What came to be known as "the yellow meal" was just about all I ate until the rest of my supplies trickled in through the mail.

At some point, I realized that everyone who had kindly offered advice about dealing with food had been right...and wrong. Arctic life is hexagonal, at best.

Nothing wrong with that, I guess.

Unless you're a newbie who wants to eat!

Recipe for a Flaky Crust

2009-12-15T21:26:00.008-09:00

Temperatures have dropped back into the normal range for this time of year. I checked the airport website a few minutes ago...

Temperature -36 F (-38 C)
Windchill -56 F (-49 C)

That's about right for December. It's definitely nippy.

Our little heat wave last week was immediately followed by several days of fog. Many of you probably already know (or can guess) that fog does some serious shape-shifting when the mercury begins to drop, but not before wrapping itself around every conceivable surface it can find.

Recipe for a Flaky Crust?

1 part temperature (extremely cold works best) + 2 parts Heavy Fog

Mix thoroughly and allow to set.

This produces a very flaky crust that will keep for weeks and weeks.

However, avoid exposure to wind!

And, if you can't avoid it, watch your head!

It's difficult to see in photographs, but some of these lines have about three to five inches of frost surrounding them. That's a six to ten inch diameter!

Fences add an elegant variation to the recipe, don't you think?

The snow (still) piled up on the railing of my porch has acquired a layer of frosty feathers.

I guess that's it for now. Stay warm out there!

Who tinkered with the thermostat?

2009-12-10T16:45:00.005-09:00

Friday and Saturday were blustery days full of stiff wind and lots of blowing snow, the kind of blowing snow that wreaks havoc with airline flights and deposits impassable drifts across roads and between buildings. That's always bad news for those with travel plans...or groceries on the way...or hopes of getting mail.

On the other hand, it's good news for kids of all ages who will play for days and days in those nice, deep, wintry troves of frozen fun. It's also good for those of us (who are not waiting for groceries or mail) who adore the look and feel of fresh layers of snow.

After two full days of the blustery stuff, I opened the door Sunday morning and was greeted by a wall of about four feet of snow precariously balancing on the rail around my porch (these photos were taken the next day after I'd cleared the steps and the piles had settled some).

I was also greeted by an even thicker wall of warm, moist air. Warm, moist air? Was this...June? July? August? Okay, it wasn't straight-out-of-the-shower moisture or steam bath mugginess, but 28 degrees above zero feels like a whole different season compared to -10F or even -30F!

Kids all over town spent most of Sunday building snow structures and sledding. The whine of snow machines began around 9am and still haven't ceased. Weather like this is perfect for long snow machine rides on the tundra. There is always a race to see who will be the first to tackle those powdery fresh drifts or break the trail.

The warm reprieve inspired quiet walks as well, a pleasure usually reserved for summer.

Yet, as I write, temperatures are already dropping. I suspect the air is drying too. Sub-zero will be the norm again. Then all this beautiful, silent fluff will revert back to its former state as a styrofoamy solid, squeaking with every step, making quiet walks a physical impossibility.

It's Tougher Than it Looks

2009-11-25T15:02:00.006-09:00

Last night our temperatures warmed up about thirty degrees from -31 F (-35 C) to just below zero. As I write this, the airport instruments are showing -2.9 F (-18.8 C). That probably doesn't sound like much of a warming trend, but it makes a big difference, believe me.

Two nights ago, I took my dog out for a walk...or at least I intended to. He was certainly up for it, but about thirty feet from the building he started picking up his feet. Those of you who live in colder regions know that's a sign that it's too cold for unprotected feet. My old dog never got the hang of wearing booties, so he either has to be willing to tough it out or stay inside. When he started falling down, I helped him decide that it was too cold and quickly took him back inside.

Last night was a completely different story. At -2.9 he seemed fine outside, frisky even. He showed no sign of pain at all. Temperatures around zero just don't seem to be all that bad. I can always tell when temperatures drop to about -10 F or lower because the moisture inside my nose always begins to freeze (nice gauge, huh?).

However, this is a windy place and the windchill today has been in the negative 20's, so unprotected skin is still at risk. A couple of my students already have nasty frostbite marks on their faces. So it makes sense to dress warmly and be careful to cover up everything. That sounds simple enough, but it's not always an easy task.

Especially if you're three.

Check out one of my favorite beauties getting into her gear. Those zippers can be tricky...even for me!

By the time I walked up, she already had her inside shoes off and her snow pants on. I caught her struggle with her zipper on video (so cute). Watch her feel for the emblem on her hat. Smart girl. :)

Then Aaka helped with mittens...

...and the overcoat...and the scarf...and the boots.

Finally, if the kid is still breathing, he or she is ready to go outside!

Community Quote

2009-11-24T18:44:00.011-09:00

“It’s all ready to go except for the guts.”

Said by an elder at church as she offered me a goose.
(Gotta love small communities!)

A Really Great Shew!

2009-11-19T21:36:00.006-09:00

The talent show went off without a hitch.

It was a team effort between school staff (who organized) and Healthy Communities (who supported with funding).

All I can say is...Ed Sullivan would have been proud.

It was a variety show with variety in spades!

Not only was there great singing...

poetry,

mechanical impressions,

a completely original handpuppet video,

and an amazing guitar solo.

There was even one act that literally defied definition!

And the refreshments were pretty awesome too!

In spite of being sick, I was really glad to have attended. And I was so proud of all the contestants. I think performing in front of family and friends with absolutely no chance for anonymity might be even more difficult than facing an audience of strangers. But each performed beautifully. No one choked or cried or backed out at the last minute. It was a fun night full of laughter and applause...just the way we like it around here.

One of the highlights of the evening (besides the Sisters of the Boa Act, that is) was when quiet, unassuming, Peter took a walk on the wild side with his electric guitar. I was expecting him to play some sweet little ballad on his acoustic because I knew he was self-taught and a little shy. I just figured he'd play something low-key and safe.

Surprise!

Think big time rocker without the absurd persona.

I think the entire gym was shocked and awed as his fingers fluttered up and down the strings. He ended up walking away with a well-deserved first place prize. Congratulations, Peter! Can't wait to hear more.

If the video above doesn't work for you, give it a try here

Didn't see your favorite act in this post? Look for more photos on my Flickr account (click any photo and you'll be sent there automatically).

Flashback

2009-11-14T13:38:00.006-09:00

A nasty bug has invaded my body and made me sick, sick, sick.

So, although there are tons of things that need doing today, I don't have the energy or motivation to move much less accomplish...anything.

This couldn't have come at a worse time (as if there is ever a good time).

Tonight there will be a (first ever) community talent show at school and I am supposed to take pictures. There will also be some guitar music that I've been looking forward to and don't want to miss.

I've heard rumors that there will be a faculty "act" and I've been warned NOT to video tape it.

So...you know what that means, right? :)

I'm hoping that this virus will run its course and I'll be feeling well enough to not only attend the talent show, but grab some photos and (of course) blackmail-worthy video too.

It should be a hoot.

In the meantime, I thought I'd share a little flashback from summer involving two of my favorite little guys who are obviously experts at making the best of a bad situation.

What do you do when your bicycle falls apart? Cry? Curse? Complain?

Let these masters of the half-full glass show you...

Big Night

2009-11-06T17:43:00.000-09:00

So what do you do on Halloween night when temperatures are hovering around zero and you live hundreds of miles off the road system?

You make your own fun. That's what you do!

Puuqtaluk is an annual Halloween event that involves costumed dancers and a full night of silliness and laughter. For a more detailed explanation, click here.

It's difficult to appreciate the craziness of Puuqtaluk unless you experience it for yourself. The costumes can be a bit...er...off-putting if viewed out of context.

If you're not a local, it's hard to imagine just what might be lurking behind the gruesome grins.

The whole idea is to remain anonymous.

See what I mean?

But Atqasuk residents know that it's all in fun. No one relishes frightening anyone. The costumes are meant to conceal and distract from the dancer's identity and sometimes they actually pull it off.

Take this guy, for instance.

You'd never know it by looking at him, but there is a stand-up comic buried beneath all that ugly. (A very creative dancer as well). This year he won first place in his age group and then went on to compete against all age groups, including adults, to win the grand prize!

Here he is after winning for the second time that night. Awesome!

So here's the drill...

#1...a space is cleared for dancing...dancers on one side and the audience on the other.

#2...loud music is played in two-three minute segments allowing participants to dance individually as well as alongside competitors.

#3...judges judge.

#4...spectators spectate.

#5...the winner reveals his/her identity and collects a prize.

#6...everyone repeatedly watches videos of students and friends dancing their crazy dances (or am I the only one that does that?).

What a Sweet Day!

2009-10-31T23:52:00.005-08:00

This has been an exceptionally nice day.

It began quite uncharacteristically. I woke up early and still felt great! I can't explain it. There was no good reason for it. It just happened. In spite of staying up late and not feeling well for the past week, there it was. I was awake at 6:25 a.m., without the aid of an alarm clock and didn't feel like I'd been hit by a truck or was being sucked down a gigantic drain.

Amazing!

Is this how morning people feel every day?

My dog wasn't prepared for the early start (he's not a morning person either) and continued to snooze on his bed while I made my favorite scrambled omelet, read, checked my email, and had time to do a leisurely catch-up on almost every blog that I enjoy, including a few new ones that I had never seen before.

That was huge!

It was still dark outside. Only a house or two showed signs of life. No snow machines or four-wheelers buzzing here or there. No dogs barking or kids yelling. Nothing. Just quiet and stillness and the soft glow of streetlights on freshly fallen snow.

Not long after lunch, there came an intermittent pounding on the doors of the four-plex where I live.

Trick-or-Treaters? Already? In the middle of the day?

Yep.

One after another, they kept on coming, some unknown force drawing them away from the warmth of their homes toward hands full of chocolate and Sweet Tarts and bubble gum and toys.

Eventually, I realized that this is the first Halloween that I've spent in this village that didn't fall on a school day. Even when Halloween fell on Saturday, we had Saturday school, so most of our kids are accustomed to trick-or-treating almost immediately after school. Without the confinement of school, they were free to get an early start.

And they did!

One after another, they showed up on my door step with faces sweeter than the candy in their bags.

And tonight is Puuqtaluk!

But that's another story.

Yippeeeee!

2009-10-21T19:45:00.002-08:00

We've had blowing snow all day and it's still going strong. Drifts of snow, piles of snow, whirling, swirling flurries of snow, all creating slippery slopes perfect for sliders of all sizes.

Finally!

This is how fall is supposed to be! Frost is nice, even beautiful, but just not that much fun.

I've already heard the growl and whine of snow machines around the village. Rescued from no-snow limbo, they are free, free, freeeeee!

I guess my motor is pretty revved up too, huh?

Happy, happy, happy! I am a cold weather person!

I'm not sure, but I think the duck might even agree.

This is October?

2009-10-18T22:07:00.008-08:00

On Friday afternoon, one of the young men in my Literature class looked out the window of our classroom and sighed, "I think we might have a brown winter."

I sighed as well and had to admit that I'd been having similar thoughts. Then we comforted each other by agreeing that certainly we'd get more snow soon, but with three snow falls come and gone, it didn't look hopeful.

The river and lake have frozen over and ice fishing has commenced, but temperatures in the mid-thirties have stolen our snow at least three times since September. One morning last week, the ground was covered with a thick layer of very slippery ice, but no snow.

Then today it snowed again, a nice thick layer, and everything looks clean and white, at least for the moment.

Many of you have asked for more information about Wanda and her progress. I haven't asked her many questions because I know she's fielded quite a few since her return, but I don't think she'd mind me giving a short update.

On the day she was rescued, Wanda was first taken to our clinic here in the village and then boarded a flight to Barrow. The hospital there checked her out and treated her feet which were suffering from 1st/2nd degree frostbite. A few days ago, she was able to return home where she is resting and healing.

At least I hope she's resting!

She didn't require surgery on her feet, but it is still painful for her to walk. Also, her fingertips are numb. Both of these are conditions that she should be able to overcome. It's just going to take some time.

I do want to thank all of you who have thought good thoughts or said prayers for her. I know she appreciates it, as do I.

And, again, I can't say enough to commend our search and rescue volunteers. They worked round the clock for five days and nights. They are a credit to this village!

A Surviving Story

2009-10-08T14:10:00.012-08:00

I write this with trembling hands, unsure of where to begin or what to say. This is what I know.

Saturday morning our school secretary (also the mother of several of our students) packed up her sled and four-wheeler and left for a day of caribou hunting. Fall and spring are prime hunting seasons in this area and Wanda is a caribou hunter.

Wanda was taught to hunt by her father. She is an excellent shot and seldom comes home empty-handed. As a single mother, she has continued to hunt, fish, and gather subsistence foods, teaching her own children similar skills. This is what the Inupiat do. This is their way. Six days ago, Wanda began an ordinary journey that ended today with an extraordinary outcome.

She survived.

Late Saturday night, into the earliest morning hours of Sunday, one of Wanda's daughters realized that her mom should be home...and wasn't. Notifying our local search and rescue unit set an enormous effort in motion. And across the village telephone lines burned an incredible and frightening fact.

Wanda was missing.

I won't try to relay the distress that a thing like this produces. The search and rescue team, mostly unpaid volunteers, spent five nights and five days tirelessly scouring the tundra over-land while a chopper and rescue plane searched from above. A grid was mapped out, evidence was analyzed, prayers were prayed, and tears were shed.

Everyone knew all too well how the story could end. Five nights alone on the tundra, braving temperatures in the low twenties with 20-40 mile-per-hour winds seemed like too much to bear. But no one was willing to underestimate the power of a miracle or the strength of a determined Inupiat woman armed with survival skills and fueled by a will to live...for herself as well as for her children.

Yet, after so many days without a trace, brave faces were beginning to weaken. Eyes glazed over as fatigue and fear of the worst crowded in. Rumors proliferated causing spirits to soar then quickly crash against the harsh reality of truth. People of the North are not strangers to this. They have lived for centuries with the vicious bite of the elements at their heels. Death is a part of life, but not knowing is an added burden that no one can be prepared for.

Where is the line between delusion and hope? And who has the right to draw it?

Thankfully, Wanda's family and this community won't have to answer that question after all. This afternoon Wanda was found, not only alive, but in good shape. She was exhausted, sore, wind-burned, possibly a little dehydrated, but conscious and talking and walking on her own two feet.

Her survival skills had served her well and left her with a story to tell. This is what the Inupiat do. This is their way...but I'm not sure anyone expected such a powerful and beautiful end to this particular tale.

This is a surviving story. One that was lost has made her way home.

And for that...we are all incredibly grateful.

Fall Fashion

2009-09-17T19:36:00.013-08:00

These days Nuna is sporting a distinctively autumn atikluk. Her fall fashions are among an expansive collection exclusively designed by Freezing Temperatures and North Wind Unlimited.

Fresh off the runway, her ensemble is a celebration of rich color...

... and textural interest.

Beaded accessories were provided by Days & Days of Fog who graciously added dimension to Nuna's wardrobe with countless strings of genuine H2O.

A few impressive pieces were on loan from Precipitation Factory Direct (stay tuned for their soon-to-be-released ice collection).

It's good to see that, even at her age, Nuna still enjoys a little bling.

Weighty Subject

2009-09-03T19:55:00.000-08:00

Whew! Things have really been crazy since school started three weeks ago and nothing has been hit harder by the whirlwind of renewed activity than this blog. So, while there are plenty of things to share, there is very little time to share it.

I am completely in awe of FC over at Pure Florida in that he somehow manages post interesting things almost daily in spite of his hectic school schedule and personal commitments. Kudos to you, FC! I'm just not there yet, but you are definitely my blogging inspiration!

So...

While I have a few short minutes, I thought I'd offer up some photos of a fossilized Woolly Mammoth tusk recently discovered on the tundra by a local hunter here in Atqasuk. It's not an uncommon thing to find tusks up here, but this one is quite a bit larger than others that have surfaced.

This thing weighs about sixty pounds and is probably more than 4000 years old! Pretty amazing, huh?

It kind of redefines that old expression of being "long in the tooth!"

Familiar Story with a Twist

2009-08-15T08:00:00.001-08:00

Whether we like it or not, the carefree fun of summer is just about played out. But don't despair! The cold winds of autumn have blown a new game into town.

Football!

Okay, not such a new game. Most of the U.S., of course, has had a long-standing and intimate relationship with American football for many decades. But, here in the Arctic, that hasn't always been the case.

Arctic football was instituted on the North Slope about two or three years ago amid the rumble of an extremely controversial storm. Even today, sensible points of view on either side of the argument still elicit heated discussion within certain circles across the Slope.

Yet, the games play on.

In Barrow, the teams are average-sized, in most respects, with plenty of players to fill each position on the field, but the village teams are smaller, in both size and number, and tend to be less typical in other ways as well.

Village schools play "eight-man football," a version with slightly different rules, making play more feasible and fun for the smaller teams. Even before the official first day of school for students, our local team has been practicing. A jamboree is on the horizon and our Eagles hope to soar.

In spite of temperatures in the thirties and cold mist chilling most faces, an enthusiastic desire to learn and improve keeps bodies moving while the dirt flies.

Nothing special or unique in any of that, I guess. Football teams across the country are all doing much the same thing.

The cool thing is, on our team, about a third of the guys...

...aren't guys at all!

End of Summer

2009-08-14T21:49:00.003-08:00

Where in the world did the summer go?

(I know, I know...Australia!)

It seems to have slipped behind the clouds while attention was trained on a recent thunderstorm. As I write this, our ambient temperature is 34 (F) with a windchill of 24 degrees. After the last two or three days' rain and wind, the cotton grass around the village now more closely resembles the wet, matted fur of a freshly-bathed cat than the fluffy balls of cotton in the photograph above.

The sun dips progressively lower in the sky as if weary from months of radiating around the clock. Two weeks ago we had a string of pleasant, though windy, blue-sky days and anyone with a four-wheeler got outside and made the most of it.

Hunters went hunting. Fishers went fishing. Pickers went picking. And big brothers took little sisters for rides around the village, enjoying the fresh scent of wet summer grass and the warm caress of sun on their cheeks that will be a memory all too soon.

Quiet moments of sun-splashed Summer grow shorter and fainter every day...

while Autumn slips in a silent finger and does some doodling in the sand.

Brown-Out, Blackout Blues

2009-08-12T20:36:00.008-08:00

The thrill is gone.

Can you hear it?

The thrill is gone.

Can you feel it?

The strum and twang and thump of my soul's invisible guitar?

The hoarse, even course, misery-laden voice of one who's been done oh, so wrong?

Yep, that's me.

Begging, borrowing, not-yet-stealing connectivity.

I've got them "brown out done caused a week-long internet blackout blues."

And I feel so bad.

So downright sad.

Oh, yes I do.

Them brown-out-blackout-blues.

Only in Alaska?

2009-07-27T23:57:00.003-08:00

My phone rang around 5:30 this afternoon. On the other end of the line, I heard a recorded message from Senator Mark Begich of Alaska. Like most people, I absolutely detest telephone solicitations, especially political ones, but, before I could make a move to hang up, I heard him say something about discussing the health care bill.

Now that caught my attention.

For weeks, I've been reading online articles and listening to online radio broadcasts in an effort to understand what in the world is going on with Obama's health care reform efforts. I'm all for reform where reform is needed, but I must admit that much of what I've read and heard has me rather concerned. So I was more than happy to hear what the new Senator from Alaska had to say.

Within a few seconds, I realized that Senator Begich was not soliciting anything or even giving a prepared speech. In fact, the phone call was actually part of a statewide "Tele-Town Hall Meeting."

Say, what???

All across the state, telephones rang with an invitation to talk with Senator Begich (personally!) about health care reform. I have no idea how many people were home to answer their telephones or how many took the senator up on his offer, but for about 30-40 minutes participants from all corners of Alaska called in and were free to ask questions.

Living in a bush village, away from the action and access of important cities, it's easy to feel voiceless and unheard. Today was the first time I've ever felt connected to my government apart from the occasional privilege of casting my vote.

I have no clue whether this "Tele-Town Meeting" thing is a new idea or has been happening for years, but I just want to go on record as saying that I appreciate having that opportunity. I applaud Senator Begich for taking the time to reach out to those he represents in a practical and tangible way. It was a great connection!

And those aren't so easy to come by in Alaska...or anywhere else.

Squirrelly

2009-07-20T00:58:00.001-08:00

It's not just the landscape that gets all squirrelly this time of year.

I'm sitting here, in my classroom, trying to update my blog, and I just had to close the mini-blinds because the sun is so bright that I'm beginning to see spots...at 12:45 AM.

The last few days have been cool (in the 40's and 50's), with light winds around 20 mph and relatively bug-free air space. Yes! Mosquitoes have been sparse for the last couple of days!

I'm hoping it's a trend and not just a blip.

I guess we'll see.

According to this cool chart, we have about 35 days before the sun finally dips below the horizon again. These super-long days make sleeping impossible for some, optional for others.

Don't think for a minute that parka squirrels are the only ones enjoying the midnight sun.

What would you do with 24 hours of daylight?

Way Too Buggy!

2009-07-15T21:15:00.012-08:00

Spring came early this year.

In fact, for a few days at the end of April, the North Slope experienced a dramatic temperature spike from the mid-20's up to and above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Everything began to drip and slush and flow at an amazing, completely unexpected, pace. That sort of thing doesn't usually happen until June.

Unfortunately, with early spring comes early thawing and hatching of about a kazillion mosquitoes.

Now, I can appreciate that mosquitoes have a place in the "circle of life." I can appreciate that many migratory birds feed on mosquitoes. And I appreciate that mosquitoes feed on the nectar of flowering plants and can be credited with some of the pollination of the tundra that occurs each year. I can even appreciate that female mosquitoes need protein for the development of their eggs. But I find it very difficult to appreciate being the source of that protein!

According to this article on Scholastic's website for kids, Ken Philip, an entomologist in Alaska reports that if you are on Alaska's North Slope with no repellent and lots of exposed skin, you could die from loss of blood within three hours! Although I can't verify the accuracy of that statement, my own experience with Arctic mosquitoes leads me to believe that Ken Philip has it just about right.

The movie The Snow Walker has been listed on my sidebar since the early days of this blog. Although the story is actually set in the Canadian Arctic, everything looks and feels extremely familiar. In one of the scenes, the main character, a bush pilot who has crash landed smack in the middle of the tundra in summer, tries to escape a swarm of hungry mosquitoes. I have experienced (many) similar swarms, but never without protection. I was amazed by the realism of that scene and can't imagine how they accomplished it. If you're interested, check out this great clip . There is a short segment in the clip that shows him trying to outrun the swarm. Of course, the movie shows more.

I'm including a little mosquito footage of my own. Though definitely not an example of high-quality camera work, it's what I have for now. It is difficult to see the LCD or manipulate the camera while hiding hands and every other vulnerable body part inside a nylon mesh bug shirt, but I just couldn't bring myself to sacrifice skin or blood for the sake of better video.

Sorry about that.

Alaska Geographic

2009-07-10T21:17:00.002-08:00

A couple of days ago, I caught the last half of a program on PBS previewing the new Ken Burns documentary about America's National Parks. Although I only saw part of the preview, what I did get to see was excellent! I can't wait to view the entire twelve-part series.

Yesterday, I received an email from Alaska Geographic highlighting Ken Burns' visit to Anchorage for a special presentation of his documentary. All the proceeds from this event were dedicated to supporting Alaska Geographic and the National Parks Conservation Foundation.

That reminded me that, although I've had a little blurb on my sidebar for a long time describing North Slope Now one book in the excellent Alaska Geographic series, I've never really taken the time to point out what a great resource Alaska Geographic's website is for anyone interested in learning more about Alaska or experiencing The Great Land for themselves.

The website has free, downloadable travel guides and a terrific bookstore with more titles than I could ever list on my blog such as, One Man's Wilderness , the story of Richard Proenneke's Alaskan experience that began as a one-year experiment and became a thirty-year adventure. There is a companion DVD available as well which was developed from the diary and film clips that Proenneke recorded during his time there. Just watching him build a log cabin from scratch, all on his own, is worth the price of the DVD!

If Alaska has ever held any fascination for you, Alaska Geographic is a great place to begin an exciting adventure of your own!

Stumped

2009-07-07T23:55:00.003-08:00

Four weeks is a long time not to blog.

It's not that I've been off or away or had nothing to share.

I'm here...haven't been anywhere. I have quite a collection of summertime photos cached away. Some have been on my computer for weeks and weeks, unshared, growing stale, gathering virtual dust.

The truth is, I've been stumped...baffled, discountenanced, disquieted, stunned.

Like the unfortunate comrades of the playground duck, something came along that knocked me for a loop.

And I couldn't write about it. Still can't, exactly.

Let's just say that the buggy side of the dog expanded its borders for a while. The cool summer wind that holds bugs at bay died down and an uncomfortable stillness pressed in heavily against my heart. Then began the irritating buzz of a thousand doubts around my ears, each whining a plethora of reasons to fold it up, pack it in, silently succumb.

How could I write about that?

Thankfully, the wind reappeared before any succumbing came to pass. Huffing and puffing, it sent the bugs packing, back to the grass where they'll wait and hide.

Now, instead of seeing this...

I'm beginning to see this.

I've missed this place, this corner of cyberspace, where the Arctic and the Tropics can be next-door neighbors, where people who've never met can be inseparable friends.

Four weeks is a long time not to blog.

I think I can write about that.

Snow Bunting, Captured!

2009-06-08T02:56:00.009-08:00

Okay, bird lovers, smooth those ruffled feathers. I'm talking about capturing this elusive character digitally. But you knew that, right?

After feeling rather jealous of Clare's recent shot of a Snow Bunting and then absolutely drooling over these, I continued to carry my camera literally everywhere, hoping my moment would come. And it finally did...at four o'clock in the morning! Good thing we've got plenty of sunlight to accommodate.

The little guy I photographed seems partial to that particular spot. I'm pretty sure he's the one that I've observed there quite a few times before. He sits very close to the edge and sings to his heart's content. I can hear it in the house, even with the windows closed. This isn't a great photo, I know. I certainly would have loved to have been closer or able to zoom in more, but it's still the best I've been able to capture so far and I've been trying for years.

Why the mildly obsessive interest in Snow Buntings?

Good question.

I think it has a lot to do with the fact that they are the first birds to return in spring (except for ravens and seagulls). They flit all around the village, doing aerial acrobatics, heralding from every rooftop and telephone pole that winter is really behind us.

In early spring, while snow is still abundant, the Snow Bunting's black and white color scheme makes spotting them something of a challenge.

But there is absolutely no mistaking that sweet song.

According to whatBird.com the collective word for this species is "drift."

A drift of buntings. Isn't that beautiful?

How very appropriate for a group of birds that blow in on the wind and flutter like snowflakes through the frosty springtime air.

In Lieu of Trees

2009-06-06T00:48:00.008-08:00

In a land with no trees...one must make do.

And, apparently, ravens are extremely good at exactly that! This pair of Common Ravens staked out an interesting piece of real estate and set up house keeping lickety-split.

Now, birds are great adapters, I know. They spare no effort nor creativity as they attempt to cope with human encroachment on their territories. If you doubt that, check out this amazing Osprey nest from the archives of Pure Florida, a terrific, mostly-nature, purely-Florida blog.

However, these ravens are not victims of territory infringement or over-crowding. They could go anywhere, hundreds of miles in any direction, and be away from "civilization" if they really wanted to. I imagine (perhaps naively) that they come here and live in this village, claiming the telephone poles, rooftops, heating vents, and even satellite dishes completely by choice. I'm sure dumpsters are a big draw in and of themselves, but I find myself wondering if they might hang out in a village because they actually like being around people (and their pets). Not in a friendly, up close and personal sort of way, but from a distance, out of curiosity and an innate propensity for pestering.

Some of the kids around here call these birds "crows." I grew up surrounded by cornfields in the South. I know what crows are and these are not crows. Not only are they much larger than crows, but their vocalizations are completely different. I found a great sound file on whatBird.com (one of my favorite resources) along with a nice map of their habitat which ranges across most of North America year-round. There are a couple of sounds that I've heard ravens produce that are not on the website recording and they're difficult to describe...something akin to the clicks and whistles of R2D2 in Star Wars. I couldn't find a free copy of that, so you'll just have to use your memory (or imagination).

Ravens have personality. I can't even count how many times a raven or two has followed my dog and me on our walks across the tundra or along the river. Are they opportunistic? Absolutely! Maybe they follow us in the hope that we'll scare up lemmings or other such potential food, but when I mimic their vocalizations, they always talk back. I don't imagine it to be amiable conversation. It's more like talking to a crotchety old geezer who shouts unsolicited advice from his porch.

My first experience with ravens ocurred back when I was still a newbie in this village. Two were on the roof of my house, waging war, their enormous claws clicking loudly against the tin. I hurried outside to reprimand whatever naughty child must be throwing rocks on the roof and found the enormous dueling-twosome instead. They looked like shiny black knights locked in mortal combat.

But these two, on the other hand, have something different in mind.

Ah, spring!

Nature's Abstracts

2009-06-01T21:55:00.005-08:00

Hot or cold? Damp or dry? What will it be today?

The elements subtly play their cards while puddles and piles await their fate. The Sun seems to hold a winning hand, but the Arctic wind may conceal an ace. Chips stack up on either side as round after round is perpetually played.

Nature's abstracts abound in spring...

...for she has no poker face.

Wrapping It Up

2009-05-31T00:34:00.002-08:00

I guess it's time to wrap up this Scotland thing. Of course, I have many, many more photos. For anyone who'd like to see a few that I haven't posted here, just click on a photo and you should be directed to the Going Places folder of my Flickr account.

It's actually been snowing around here for about two days and I really don't mind at all. It keeps the dirt on the roads and out of my eyes, nose, mouth, shoes, and home. But, when I look back at my photos from Scotland, I am continually amazed by the breathtaking vibrance of spring in more temperate latitudes.

Of course, I expected to see lots of windswept trees and rolling, emerald pastures. And there were plenty of those.

And in the rural areas surrounding the coastal cities of Aberdeen and Banff, there were plenty of grazing sheep and highland cattle. Supposedly, this breed of cattle tends to be gentle in spite of the menacing appearance. I stayed on my side of the fence...just in case I misunderstood.

Some of the farms were less traditional, but equally as beautiful.

One thing I didn't expect to see was a ballet!

On our last night, a group of us attended the Scottish Ballet's production of Carmen at His Majesty's Theatre in Aberdeen.

We weren't allowed to photograph any portion of the performance, but they did give us permission to take pictures of the theatre. And it was lovely. It reminded me very much of the theatre in the movie The Illusionist.

Except that this theatre had room for an orchestra. And they were excellent!

I had almost as much fun admiring the architectural and decorative details of the space as I did the ballet.

I said almost!

Even the ceiling was a work of art!

My trip to Scotland could be loosely categorized as a teacher exchange. However, according to UK immigrationese, "teacher exchange" implies that work is taking place and work is something we were not legally allowed to do during our visit (fancy that!). So, instead of using the word exchange, we had to explain that we were visiting, observing, learning, and building relationships.

Simple enough, I know, but it definitely took more time and vocabulary.

And, except for the immigration officers, our explanation was invariably met with, "So, it's like a teacher exchange, right?" You see the problem.

My receiving this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity was basically a matter of being in the right place at the right time. Or, more accurately, having the right principal at the right time. Thank you, Becky! My principal was a part of the exchange visit last year and graciously nominated me for the trip. I was hesitant about being away from school for so many days, but I knew that I'd be sorry if I didn't jump at the chance to go.

So, I jumped!

And the whole experience turned out to be as sweet as the Sticky Toffee Pudding we feasted on almost every night.

(Except for the carrying heavy luggage up four flights of stairs part...that wasn't so sweet...but I digress.)

The name says it all, doesn't it? Sticky...toffee...pudding (pudding is the UK word for any sort of dessert)...with ice cream on the side. Yum!

It looks simple and it is--divinely simple. And well worth another trip across the ocean!

Haggis I'll Eat Anything!

2009-05-28T19:39:00.001-08:00

Main Entry: hag·gis

Function:: noun
Etymology:: Middle English hagese
Date:: 15th century

: a traditionally Scottish dish that consists of the heart, liver, and lungs of a sheep or a calf minced with suet, onions, oatmeal, and seasonings and boiled in the stomach of the animal.

Yeah, I'd heard about haggis long before my trip and was secretly dreading the moment when I'd actually be face-to-face, or fork-to-mouth, with the stuff. I shouldn't have been worried. Apparently, a good chef is a major factor in the whole haggis-eating experience and the chef at Musa did not disappoint. Served as an appetizer, this version of the traditional Scottish favorite was served with very tasty potatoes and parsnips.

If the physical structure housing Musa reminds you of a church, there is good reason for that. Back in the 1880's, it was known as a Catholic Apostolic Church. But, get this, in the last thirty or forty years it has been used as a banana-ripening warehouse! The word "musa" is a species name for the banana plant. (check the walls for banana-inspired artwork)

We were seated at a delightful round table in the balcony, directly in front of our own private stained-glass window. The shape of the table made conversation easy.

And our perch in the balcony insured that we wouldn't miss the excellent music in spite of a house full of other diners.

Dig the plaid hosery! She was dressed as beautifully as she played!

Scotland, Bit-by-Bit

2009-05-18T17:41:00.001-08:00

My intentions were good, but the timing has been bad for any sort of thoughtful explanation of my trek to Scotland.

I'm not giving up on the idea.

It may just have to come in dribs and drabs.

I do appreciate all the interest expressed through patiently prodding emails from those with some curiosity about the trip.

Here's a snippet, at least...

I was fascinated by this particular view from the ruins of Findlater Castle , not far from the very quaint, northern coastal village of Cullen.

Standing dangerously close to the edge of an eroding wall, I felt as if I had stumbled into the most unique (and possibly magical) place I've ever been.

And somehow that seemed completely fitting, even what I'd hoped to find.

Though the exact date of its construction is unclear, this is a depiction of Findlater Castle in its prime sometime around the thirteenth or fourteenth century.

Though only a few of the "bones" remain, there is something awe-inspiring about a structure that, having battled the elements for hundreds of years, continues to stand.

Wind whispers between the stones...(really)

...sharing secrets with the sea.

Off Slope: Way, way off!

2009-05-07T06:41:00.009-08:00

I've been away for almost two weeks and have lots to share. The plan is to do some sorely needed catch-up blogging over the weekend. But, until then, I'll give you one guess where I've been.

I doubt that you'll need more than one! :)

So???

Wholly Frozen Caribou!

2009-04-14T20:05:00.003-08:00

Some mysterious photos are circulating across the North Slope and they are quite the humdingers.

But let me begin by saying two things.

1. I received these photos in an email. I don't know who took the photos, the circumstances involved, or the date on which they were taken.

2. My only purpose in sharing them is to illustrate the harsh reality of extreme cold and the impact on all life inhabiting this region. It is not my intention to trivialize an animal's misery or death.

Unfortunately, every year, a few animals do freeze in the Arctic. However, there is much debate around the community about whether or not this poor caribou froze on the ground and was set upright for the photo or did actually freeze as it stood alone against a frigid wind. According to local hunters, either is possible.

The message that accompanied the photos in the email was short:

"Check this out...the caribou was found frozen in place by DEC personnel on a site inspection on the North Slope. That is some cold weather....temps were down in the -40s F wind chills to -70 to -80.

Caribou froze standing still at -80 wind chill in Kuparuk AK."

When I googled Kuparuk, I found this map...

...and this article about the nasty oil/water spill that occurred there a few months ago. (for those who might be interested)

All around the village, caribou chip away at packed snow with their hooves and graze on last year's honey-colored grass buried beneath. I've seen areas where small groups have bedded down on the tundra, the warmth of their bodies melting snow a foot deep or more. I think it would be difficult for a lone caribou to survive for long during the coldest, darkest nights of winter.

In my opinion, the legs are positioned oddly for an animal who died on the ground. And caribou hooves are large, unlike the narrower hooves of a deer. The snow seems to be hugging the legs very closely. If someone had picked it up and "planted" it in the snow, it seems like there would be hoof-sized holes around the legs. I don't see that.

On the other hand, in the first photo, there is a white patch on the caribou's left hind leg that looks like a chunk of packed snow. It's hard to imagine how that could become fused to an animal's fur without some prolonged contact with the ground. Still, that could be a remnant of snow from another, less challenging, day.

It's hard to know just what to think.

It's a mystery.

An unfortunate secret only Winter knows...and will probably never tell.

Cold-Hard-Fact #4

2009-04-09T18:02:00.007-08:00

Contrary to popular belief, zero isn't necessarily nothing.

It may be a big, fat nothing when speaking of money or calories, but in reference to temperature, zero isn't nothing. It's definitely something.

Around here, we call it warm.

On a day like today, when the mercury hovers in the zero range, kids will actually say, "Oh, man, it's warm out!" And they'll head off to school or toward a favorite sliding hill wearing short pants and a light jacket or no jacket at all.

According to the airport weather station, our temperature spiked considerably overnight from negative 25 up to zero and it has remained there throughout the day. All that warm, moist air paired with a relatively stiff wind created just the right conditions for a full day of misty sideways snow.

(which explains why the duck photo, above, looks so blurred)

Wind from ENE (060 degrees) at 21 MPH (18 KT)
Visibility 3/4 mile(s)
Sky conditions overcast
Weather Light snow mist
Temperature 0 F (-18 C)
Windchill -22 F (-30 C)
Dew Point -4 F (-20 C)
Relative Humidity 84%

During most of our winter and spring, the snow is amazingly dry. It may come down wet, but cold, arid air pulls the moisture away fairly quickly, leaving a fine powder that is great for sliding and cross-country skiing, but not so great for building snowmen or snowball fights.

Zero snow is very different.

As I walked to the post office a few minutes ago, I grabbed a handful of snow to see if it would pack. Piling up in the "toasty" zero-degree air, the snow was still wet enough that it began to melt in my hand and I was able to form a small, walnut-sized chunk of ice.

Not exactly an impressive snowball, but it's better than nothing....which is what I would have held in my hand if I had tried the same thing yesterday.

Quick Update

2009-04-07T08:19:00.004-08:00

Walking to school this morning, I didn't pull up the hood on my jacket. It didn't really seem all that cold, but by the time I reached the front steps I could feel the familiar pinch of impending frostbite stinging my right ear.

Obviously, it was colder than I thought.

When I arrived in my classroom, I checked the weather from the airport and that confirmed what my ear had already told me.

Wind from the E (080 degrees) at 12 MPH (10 KT)
Visibility 10 mile(s)
Sky conditions clear
Temperature-23 F (-31 C)
Windchill -47 F (-44)
Dew Point -29 F (-34 C)
Relative Humidity 74%

It's actually not as uncomfortable as it might sound. And the caribou seem to be enjoying it!

The Arctic Springs Back!

2009-03-20T20:59:00.005-08:00

As I suspected it might, the first day of Spring turned out to be a sunny, blue-sky day and the village was literally bustling with activity. Snow machines and four wheelers zipped and darted all around, their riders obviously unbothered by a windchill in the negative forties.

And snow removal, which happens year-round to some extent, gets a huge boost this time of year. Hauling tons and tons of snow from point A to point B is a fairly big job that requires fairly big machinery.

Two slightly out-of-focus ravens supervised today's progress from a distance...

...while two little guys busied themselves with big machinery of their own.

Yep, it's finally Spring!

Cold-Hard-Fact # 3

2009-03-19T22:02:00.002-08:00

Anything that can freeze, will freeze...regardless of sunlight.

Could that be Murphy's Law of the Arctic?

If it's not, I think it should be.

The sun has returned with amazing swiftness and magnitude. In spite of quite a few blizzardy days, we have seen more blue sky in the last week or so than we've seen since fall. There is every reason to believe that tomorrow's Vernal Equinox will arrive as a white, eye-squinting splash across the snow-covered tundra, though warmth probably won't be a part of the equation.

In spite of increasing sunlight, temperatures have remained in the negative twenties to forties for, well, weeks and weeks. And that has presented some problems in the housing department. It comes as no great surprise to anyone, I'm sure, that plumbing and prolonged cold just don't mix well.

Back in January, one notorious section of pipe running under the four-plex (where I currently live) developed an ice plug. If you're thinking that this is starting to sound just plain gross, you're absolutely right. (Lindsay's blog documents January's experience as it occurred).

Last night, unfortunately, the system froze up again. Ugh!

This is the second winter that this particular section of pipe has frozen and last night, for the second time this winter, we were faced with it again. Needless to say, this pipe is developing a rather nasty reputation. After all, having your own sewer back up into your house is bad enough, but having other people's sewer overflow your toilet and gurgle up into your bathtub?

That kicks the disgust factor up a notch! Don't you think?

Now, these pipes are not regular, run-of-the-mill sewer pipes. They are a part of a specialized system that works on a vacuum controlled by a station centrally located in the village. The pipes are completely encased in about six inches of heavy foam insulation and have electrical heat traces running through them to prevent ice from forming. They're designed for the challenging conditions of this region and most of the time they work very well (insert Tim-the-Toolman's grunt of approval here).

(These are the components of the vacuum system that can be seen from outside our building. The monitor indicates whether or not the heat trace is working properly, etc.)

It's something of a mystery that this particular section of pipe continues to freeze and it's a mystery that will not be solved until summer when the snow is gone, allowing maintenance workers to gain access beneath the building.

Until then, we try to prevent ice from building up by using hot water and not sparingly so. Hot water is used for washing all clothes and we are encouraged to wash often to keep a flow of warmth in the system. I even use hot water when brushing my teeth which probably doesn't make much difference, but I'm not taking any chances!

Thankfully, we have a great maintenance crew that knows how to handle this recurring problem. Yes, the coffee creamer can is standard equipment

(I asked).

They work in collaboration with maintenance guys from the city and use a nifty little machine that snakes down the pipes and shoots hot water into the plugged area, clearing the ice.

Let me tell you, after breathing the aroma of sewer for a day or two...

...maintenance guys are my heroes!

Sorta Outta Sorts

2009-03-16T17:43:00.000-08:00

Captain's Log: Stardate 31620.09

Even when the ship is running smoothly, the magnitude of busyness in everyday life can feel like an all-encompassing mission "to boldly go where no man has gone before" (and might not want to).

I do try to be bold.

But sometimes I hear Scotty's voice frantically pleading from the engine room of my life, "She's breaking up, Captain! I don't think I can hold her together much longer!"

Good 'ole Scotty, ever the optimist.

Being out of town for five days, two weeks of battling the flu, and a seemingly endless barrage of school activities with accompanying demands has sent my ship into a tailspin and drained all energy resources. It's like being held hostage in the continuous loop of a transporter malfunction. Not completely here, not completely there, everything sketchy and vague.

That's the power of over-the-counter drugs.

Thankfully, the tailspin is winding down. I hear Scotty chuckling proudly from the engine room that he's creatively renewed energy reserves and the ship appears to be zipping boldly through uncharted territory once again. I could probably even take on a Klingon or two.

That's the power of sleep.

So, after too many weeks away, (I think) I'm back on track. I want to thank everyone who has continued to check in and say hello in spite of my severe neglect of this space.

And for those who may be wondering...

I can't really account for the Star Trek theme except that during my five days at the ASTE conference my mind was basically bombarded with a plethora of technological ideas and vocabulary that felt more Trekkie than Techie, at times.

I guess it just seemed to fit.

Off Slope: A little work...a little play

2009-02-22T09:27:00.005-09:00

It feels a little crazy.

I'm sitting in a conference room in Anchorage and have actually received a mandate from the presenter to update my blog! How amazing is that?

An explanation is probably in order.

I am attending the ASTE conference through Wednesday. This particular session is called Using Technology to Combat Teacher Isolation in Rural Schools. The leader of this session is the author of Rural Water Cooler, a cool space dedicated to providing a sense of community for teachers of rural Alaska.

Our first assignment this morning was to create a Blogger blog. A few of us already have one, so we're supposed to update! Yahoo!

In addition to creating a blog, the presenter has also (thus far) discussed...

Wiki Spot

Skype
Moodle
Ning

Now she's onto a discussion of long-distance collaboration strategies and I can't tell you what her last four sentences were.

I guess I should refocus.

What a great day of work!

Rollagons Revisited

2009-02-12T14:58:00.001-09:00

Back in March of 2008, I shared some photos of rollagons that were being used to transport fuel from Barrow to Atqasuk while the fuel plane was temporarily out of commission.

A few days ago, I received an email from an individual responding to the rollagon post. I am continually amazed by the power of the internet and blogs, in particular, for connecting people, information, and ideas.

A big thank you to Mr. Blackwell for adding his first-hand knowledge and experience to my original post and for allowing me to share his email with everyone.

Dear Kimberlee,

I was looking for pics of the Rollagon to show my son and ran across your blog. Best pics that I have seen. I worked on the Rollagon back in the ‘70’s at FMC in San Jose , CA. We were building under contract to the original inventor. It was probably the best project that I have ever worked on.
There are a couple of interesting stories that I can attest to being true.

The first relates to the rumor that a reporter volunteered to be run over by one of the original Rollagons. I say original because the first ones did not have the powered trailer, only the back deck. But back to the story – A reporter from the one of the gossip newspapers, I think it was the National Inquirer, did not believe that the ground pressure was less than a human walking on the tundra. The arctic contractor invited him to visit the work area to see for himself. He did and they ran over him. I wasn’t there but our project rep was present and sent pictures back to us engineers as proof. BTW- this same project rep was very safety conscious and always wore steel-toed boots in the shop. He found that they were not so great in the arctic when the steel almost froze his toes.

The other story is one only an engineer could love. The Rollagon used what was called a powershift transmission. It had a clutch for every gear and could run all gears in forward or reverse. This was very fortunate because at the first road test it went backwards when it was supposed to be going forward! It turns out that the drivetrain engineer overlooked the fact that the air bags were driven by a set of rollers as is shown in your photograph. He forgot that forward for the roller was backward for the air bag. Again, it was fortunate that the transmission worked all gears each direction so it was a simple matter of swapping the output direction and all was right again.

One big drawback to the original Rollagon was the lack of cargo space. You can imagine how limited it was as the only cargo space was the deck behind the cab. As a result we designed the powered trailer. This was quite an accomplishment when you think that it had to be coordinated with the front power unit for speed. This was before computer power was cheap and easy. The electrical engineer, Craig Joseph did a masterful job of designing a reliable non-computer-based controller that worked at arctic temperatures. Somewhere in my collection of photographs I have a picture of the Rollagon with the trailer loaded with stacks of 55 gallon drums. Unfortunately, I can’t find it so I was quite pleased to find your pics. Thanks for sharing.
I don't know if you are still in the arctic, the date on the page was almost a year ago.

Don Blackwell

For more information about rollagons, try clicking here or here (scroll down for article).

Cold-Hard-Fact #2

2009-02-11T08:28:00.007-09:00

There is a reason they call it frost bite.

Okay, so as I write this our weather is -43 F with a slight easterly breeze of 5 mph. That gives us a windchill of 63 degrees below zero. School was canceled (for students) on Monday because of similar temperatures and today seems to be shaping up the same way.

I always have mixed feelings about canceling school because of low temperatures. We do live in the Arctic, after all. Can we really afford to give up on educating children every time it's really cold? I am one of those teachers who hates to see kids lose momentum and missing a day here or there can definitely lead to a stall. Moments in school are precious and my fingers often have to be pried away from time on task.

On the other hand, I absolutely understand the need for caution. The potential for frost bite, especially with children who aren't particularly mindful of such things, is a real danger. On several occasions I have developed blisters on my fingertips (like the one in the photo) even while wearing gloves! Thankfully, the blisters have healed quickly leaving little more than peeling skin to attest to my pain. Not a big deal compared to some of the injuries I've seen lately.

Forty below seems to be the magic number (click the link for Clare's excellent description). It's the only common point on the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales. Barring the escalating effects of wind, forty below is forty below whether you live in Alaska, Canada, Siberia, or even Antarctica. It's like the Bermuda Triangle of the thermometer. Once that threshold is reached or crossed, strange things begin to happen to both man and machine.

A few years ago, the insurance company that covers our school district vehicles declared that it would not continue coverage if the vehicles were used while temperatures were -40 or colder. So, on the coldest days of the year, vehicles are placed in heated garages, planes don't fly, and if someone feels the need to get out, it's their skin...quite literally.

Meanwhile, dedicated faculty and staff haunt the corridors of an empty school, secretly thankful for the windfall of extra time for getting work done. And my sister, who lives down around Fairbanks, is out getting video of her own kids experimenting with bubbles at 40 below. I thought some of you might enjoy seeing one of the weird and wonderful effects of extreme cold.

Cold-Hard-Fact #1

2009-01-31T21:26:00.008-09:00

What goes up must come down and sometimes it's a bumpy landing.

I took this photo from my porch about a week ago. Not terrific photography, I know. The light was spare and it was in the -30's at the time, so I didn't spend a lot of time trying to get a better shot.

It always amazes me when I see airplanes this enormous on our tiny, unpaved air strip. I had heard, a few days before, that a plane was blown off the runway while landing, but I hadn't realized when I took this photo that this was the plane.

When I got to work the next day, I asked about it and was told that the airplane I'd photographed was a cargo plane that was hit by a 40 mph crosswind just before touchdown. Remember that really windy day I mentioned a while back? That was the day.

As the pilot attempted to land, the right wing dipped suddenly causing the wheels to edge off the air strip onto softer, unpacked snow several feet below. And that drove the prop on the far-right engine into the ground. Ouch!

My photos were taken several days after the accident, days after tireless crews worked with machinery on-hand to haul the aircraft back onto the air strip for assessment and repair. As I understand it, they used bulldozers to pull the plane and a front-end loader to move/remove the damaged engine.

A big thank you to Mel, our plant manager, for donating the following photos from the airport.

Several vehicles were being used as light sources while the work was going on. I am astounded that they were able to do all of this under such challenging conditions.

Notice the engine sitting on the ground!

Being off the road system, this village depends on air transport for just about everything. This particular aircraft was carrying building materials and possibly furniture. It could just as easily have been carrying fuel, a completely different scenario. Thankfully, no one was injured in the accident. In fact, I don't think the cargo was seriously damaged either.

It seems we were blessed with an uneventful ending to what could have been a tragic tale.

My hope is that we never take that for granted.

Cool Rays

2009-01-25T17:20:00.006-09:00

According to the Weather Underground sticker on the sidebar, we enjoyed three hours and fifteen minutes of sunlight today. That doesn't include ambient light, of course. On the Weather Underground website, they also report that the sun's time above the horizon is currently increasing at a rate of 14 minutes and 53 seconds per day. That increase does vary some from day to day....strange, but true.

Also, I would say those numbers are close, but not exact, for Atqasuk. Weather Underground reports our weather conditions and moon/sunlight using Barrow airport information which isn't always accurate down here (55 miles southwest of Barrow).

I like to get my weather info from NOAA (see weather link in sidebar) because those readings are taken hourly with instruments that are actually at our airport. Their numbers always jibe with my home thermometer and I like that! But I haven't found any sunlight information from that source, so I've kept the Weather Underground sticker on the sidebar. And it's pretty close.

The point of all this is...
We're gaining sunlight quickly! It won't be long before sunglasses are standard gear and aluminum foil graces windows all over town.

As the next photo illustrates, a little sunlight brings out the frisky in everyone...even, maybe especially, at twenty below.

Solar Sighting...How Exciting!

2009-01-24T18:50:00.009-09:00

Our first day of sun was January 21st, but my classroom is on the north side of the school and I missed it! I heard about it, though. Kids were buzzing. Adults were humming. I must have been asked more than twenty times, "Kimberlee, did you see the sun?"

The second day, I was determined to catch a glimpse and I wasn't disappointed. This time of year, the sun stays low in the sky, splashing clouds with buttery gold, blazing a tangerine trail from southeast to southwest. It's not much of a trek at this point and it's over before you know it, but that doesn't seem to diminish the impact...and may even serve to heighten it.

Even unsightly telephone poles take on a regal appearance against a gilded backdrop such as this. At least it seems that way to me, but I'll admit that my perception may be a tad skewed.

What is it they say?

Absence makes the heart grow fonder?

I think, in this case, the old adage rings true.

Almost There

2009-01-19T19:44:00.002-09:00

Cloud cover broke on Saturday revealing, for a few short moments, a slim stretch of southern sky, ablaze with long-forgotten glory. I stood on a snowy hill captivated by the brilliance and intensity. Nuna seemed to be yawning, stretching a little, stirring from her long winter nap. Her eyes fluttered, but never completely opened.

Not yet.

Tomorrow, I think. Or maybe the next day.

The faint breeze was warm enough to prompt lowering my parka hood, yet cold enough to make me sorry that I'd done it. Ears stinging, I lifted my hood and walked eastward, toward the river where snow fences stand at attention, while the building breeze nudged me from behind.

By the time I reached the snow fences, only a few minutes later, the wind was already picking up and kicking up lots of snow.

Heading home, I passed the spot where I'd just taken pictures of the sunlight. Gone were the oranges, purples, and pinks. Nuna's eyes had shut tight again with the covers pulled up over her head.

Not today.

Not yet.

Maybe tomorrow. Or the day after.

Riders on snow machines raced around the village, hunkering down against the sting of blowing snow. I was actually enjoying the wind and the tapping sound of snow pelting my parka.

I held tightly to my dog's leash as the wind whipped it sideways with ferocious jerks. I smiled at the (silly) thought of my dog, if only a few pounds lighter, suddenly becoming airborne like a kite.
It could happen.

Maybe.

Judging by his pace, as he struggled to get back home, I think my dog might have had the same idea.

But, somehow, he didn't seem at all amused.

Weekend at the Beach

2009-01-16T17:57:00.000-09:00

Some southern friends of mine spent time at the beach recently. Slightly envious, I headed for a beach of my own. The ambient temperature was in the negative thirties. I know, not exactly typical beach weather, but beautiful nonetheless. This shot was taken from the shore of the Arctic Ocean in Barrow. I spent the weekend there visiting with friends, enjoying restaurant food, and shopping in actual stores...all rare luxuries.

The whale bones and umiaq (skin boat) frames in the photo above mark the historic site of a former whaling headquarters from the days when ships had sails, whale oil burned in lamps, and whale baleen was used to make women's corsets. Today, Brower's Cafe inhabits that space. And they make a great breakfast, no corsets involved (thank goodness!).

This time of year, the moon is seldom visible (at least in Atqasuk) because of persistent cloud cover. So it was an unexpected treat to be graced with this mesmerizing, pearl-like glow throughout the entire weekend.

I've heard it said, though reports are conflicting, that Alaska consumes more ice cream per capita than any other state. Well, we must be at the top of the drive-through coffee shack list as well. These little businesses are popping up everywhere across the state and now Barrow boasts one of its own. Unfortunately, when we stopped by on the way to my flight, it was closed. Maybe next time.

Aarigaa Java...what a great name!

The visit was way too short, but the flight home was uneventful. That's a reasonable trade-off, in my book. Now my freezer is relatively full, as is my heart after precious quiet time spent with friends.

I can honestly say, it was a great weekend at the beach!

Potential

2009-01-01T16:34:00.009-09:00

Potential: existing possibility, not yet evident or realized.

What will this new year bring?

What will I bring to this new year?

Birthday Resolution

2008-12-26T22:04:00.015-09:00

In the midst of striving

for perfect clarity

I won't forget

enjoy the view.

From My House to Yours

2008-12-24T13:10:00.004-09:00

The fog has pushed on for the time being and everything outside is soft and quiet. I want to take a moment to wish everyone a very merry Christmas. May your hours overflow with laughter and love. And may the truest miracle of the season move beyond the rooftop into the welcoming mangers of our hearts.

Fun Without the Sun

2008-12-20T22:20:00.007-09:00

It seems strangely appropriate on this eve of the winter solstice that our tiny village is blanketed with a heavy layer of freezing fog. The sun set for the last time back before Thanksgiving, but we're still blessed with a short period of ambient light on the southern horizon when the sky is perfectly clear. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't been cooperating and the only light on the southern horizon I've seen in weeks is the signal out at the airport.

Before I moved to Atqasuk, I used to wonder about that line in Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer that includes, "then one foggy Christmas Eve." Having grown up in the South, that didn't make much sense to me. I had no idea that it could be foggy and below freezing at the same time. Well, now I know. It's not only possible, but also common and something of a pain in the neck.

Bush pilots are amazingly adept at flying under the most challenging Arctic weather conditions imaginable without much of a problem, but fog isn't one of them. This time of year, with so many people trying to get out for Christmas, it can really put a damper on holiday spirit to hear that all flights have been cancelled due to fog. Where is that Rudolph when we need him?

So it's foggy here and quiet. With cloud cover hiding any celestial light and ice fog muting or totally snuffing out the artificial sources, the longest night of the year has the potential of being one of the darkest as well.

But that won't prevent kids (or adults) from playing outside. In fact, with winds down below the 10 mph mark, there will likely be a great deal of activity around the village. As these grainy photos from a few days ago depict, there is fun to be had even without the sun.

Snow slide, anyone?

Enjoying the Wind

2008-12-15T16:23:00.008-09:00

The photo above was taken on Friday (from my classroom) around lunchtime. I was hoping to get a good shot of the moon, but there was an icy haze diffusing most of the details. Still, this is a fair reflection of the amount of light we have at noon right now...when the weather is good.

The photo below, on the other hand, was taken around lunchtime today. Wind has been gusting for a couple of days, kicking up snow and forming drifts all over town.

Here's a shot from around 4 p.m. today with gusts in the 50 mph range. School dismissed an hour early. A few parents picked their children up with snow machines or other personal vehicles. But, because we don't have a school bus driver at present, the bulk of our students did not have a ride and walking was not an option. So making sure everyone arrived home safely entailed driving small groups of students home in the maintenance truck. Thankfully, all was accomplished without anyone getting lost, stuck in a drift, or running off the road.

That's always a good thing.

So now I'm headed home for the day and I'm kind of looking forward to getting out there. I actually like the wind. I like the way it feels to stand against something almost stronger than I am. And I enjoy the sounds of a storm raging outside while I'm cozily snuggled indoors. Tomorrow, as several people mentioned, will probably be calm and clear.

But, for now, I'm enjoying the wind.

Let me dust off my Tonka...

2008-12-07T17:02:00.009-09:00

Forget darkness. Forget subzero temperatures. After an extra long Thanksgiving weekend stuck inside the house, this little guy was determined to play out. The wind was cooperating, so his mom switched on the spotlight in front of their house and out he raced, Tonka in tow.

I watched him drop the enormous truck and begin pushing from behind through the fresh, flawless snow...all the while sputtering those highly developed motor noises that small boys (okay, all boys) instinctively know how to make.

I watched with admiration as he played...and played...and played.

He didn't mind that he was alone. He didn't mind that his face was cold. He didn't mind that perpetual runny nose. Heck, that's what sleeves are for. He was playing...playing. And nothing else seemed to matter.

I think I could learn a thing or two from this kid! And I'm not just talking about sound effects. How often, in the avoidance of childishness, do I end up quelling childlikeness?

I have to wonder.

In the midst of the sometimes harried, organized chaos of my life, I spend a lot of time focusing on the details of being responsible.

And that's not bad.

But, the unfettered, ingenuous grace of this four-year-old reminds me...there are qualities my heart once possessed that need reclaiming.

Quyyatigiga...

2008-11-27T13:58:00.005-09:00

I've been taking a Conversational Inupiaq course this fall...via teleconference. Yeah. Learning a new language is challenging enough. Learning a new language over the telephone is downright amusing. Although I don't see myself emerging from the course a fluent speaker by any estimation, it has definitely been a good experience and I've picked up a great deal that I hope to build on in the future.

Our last class focused on words and phrases associated with Quyyavik, or Thanksgiving. Our instructor asked us to share what we were most thankful for. One by one, participants shared their blessings. Quyyatigiga iglukput...I'm thankful for my home. Quyyatigiga savagviga...I'm thankful for my job. Quyyatigiga avilaitqatiga...I'm thankful for my closest friend. I can't write "I'm thankful for my family" in Inupiaq because it requires a letter that is impossible to type with this program (a combination of n and g), but you get the idea. We all shared our thoughts and the sources of our gratitude.

All week long, I listened to people around me naturally talking about the things in their lives that they cherish. Prayers were given, feasts were eaten. Dishes were washed, dried, and put away. Yet, there was something in the back of my mind that I just couldn't express, something for which I'm grateful that wouldn't lend itself to words, much less an Inupiaq translation.

Then I looked back through some photos that I downloaded a while ago and it hit me. This is what I'm most grateful for.

About a week ago I made some soup using one of those packages that boasts 16 different beans. Somewhere in the process of washing the beans, one of the tiniest ended up stuck to the side of the strainer in the sink. I'm not sure what it says about my housekeeping practices, but that bean must have remained there for several days being doused by the occasional flow of water from the faucet. I never even noticed it until the strainer happened to shift a little, exposing the seedling that you see in the photo.

At first, I laughed right out loud. Then amazement set in. Those of you who know me are painfully aware, I'm sure, that I make mountains out of molehills on a regular basis. I know it sounds crazy, but I don't care. Seeing this little plant was an encouragement and it illustrates something that I'm grateful for, but haven't been able to describe.

Too often, I complain when my life feels hard or dry. I complain when I feel insignificant, lacking purpose. I complain when an unexpected splash sends my good intentions down the drain. I grow weary; I grow sad and I complain.

Homes, jobs, friends, even family...almost anything can be lost or out of reach.

But the tiny bean clinging to my sink strainer reminded me of something important that I often forget. I am overwhelmingly thankful for life's tenacious potential. The tenacity that prompts me to reach up and dig deep even when...especially when...light and soil seem far away.

So, to the One who has endowed even the most insignificant beans with that tenacious potential, with all my heart...

Quyyatigiga.

I Know How He Feels

2008-11-19T23:16:00.002-09:00

It seemed simple enough.

Fly across the road...wheels spinning on packed snow, slide sideways to a full (and very cool-looking) stop at the porch, score some serious candy.

That was the not-so-well-thought-out plan.

Unfortunately, Halloween had one more trick up its sleeve.
In his enthusiasm, this trick-or-treater drove confidently off the road into snow that was
a little too deep,
a little too slick,
a little too...much for his four-wheeler.

While there may be nothing embarrassing about trick-or-treating when you're fifteen,
getting stuck is something else altogether (hence the nervous looking around).

Eventually, a helping hand arrives to save the day...
and maybe a little face.

There appear to be no other witnesses...
except for that irritating shutterbug on the porch!

But getting un-stuck is substantially more difficult than it looks.

Pulling backward doesn't help.
The only way out is
forward.

I can relate.

I know how it feels to be
stuck,
unsure of what to do about it,
and embarrassed that others see me
spinning...my...wheels.

As I press forward,
I’m thankful...for friends
with good timing.

And I'm hopeful that no one around me…
carries a camera.

Different Strokes...

2008-11-06T15:12:00.008-09:00

There's more than one way to bag some Halloween candy!

But it may require a little more effort than you think.

With faces as sweet as the candy...there's no way to lose.

The school carnival is always good for a treat or two.

You might even receive a ring from a handsome knight!

But watch out for those ferocious animals!

They're almost as frightening as the dancing!

In the meantime...

2008-10-28T16:16:00.000-08:00

Moments for posting thoughts have been hard to come by lately. So, until there is a break in the busyness, I'll just share a glimpse or two of other people having fun.

There are two loading ramps in the back of the school. One is used for deliveries and maintenance daily, but the other one is generally unused... except during sledding, or sliding, season.

Sliding is a sport that requires skill and dedication. It is not to be entered into lightly! (That's mostly a joke.)

The first step is to prepare the course. These two are making sure there is a pile of snow at the base of the ramp. It's critical that the pile be of sufficient size for propelling a sled and its occupants into the air.

The next step is to pour water down the ramp...thus creating a surface just right for high-speed acceleration. Determining whether or not the desired effect has been achieved isn't too difficult. There are always plenty of guinea pigs around.

Finally, the ramp is open for business.

If I had a nickel for every trip down...I'd be rich, rich, rich.

But, I have to say, the pleasure of watching these guys have a good time...

...is a treasure in and of itself.

Nuna: An Introduction Overdue

2008-10-15T20:16:00.013-08:00

A few weeks ago, my restless dog and I struck out for a leisurely walk around the lake. We were both grateful to get out; it had been much too long. Every step slurped and sometimes my foot walked right out of my boot. Thankfully, it wasn't too difficult to slide back in before stepping into the icy soup mostly concealed by fading grasses.

The sky was a seamless dome of gray capping a chilly breeze scented by water, grass, moss, mud, and that indefinable sweetness that always lingers on the tundra. Labrador tea? Likely, though I didn't see any along the way. Maybe I'll call the mystery scent Nuna's perfume. I like that and it suits her.

Nuna is the land. I don't know why I haven't mentioned her before. I was reminded of that on this particular day because, as I stepped, (between the slurpings) I heard something familiar that I had forgotten. It was the sound of moss tearing beneath my feet.

Very much like fabric tearing, the sound often makes me feel as though I'm ripping Nuna's garment. I wish I could tread more lightly, but I don't think she minds so much. She gets new clothes every summer. She wears a brightly colored atikluk embellished with thousands of the tiniest and most resilient blossoms imaginable.

Nuna, in summer, is soft and warm. She whispers invitation.

She generously shares her abundance with...everyone.

Her laughter is the twittering of nesting birds...

...and bubbling streams.

But as summer gives way to autumn, Nuna's laughter begins to fall away. Puddles and ponds develop a frosty skin.

She feels it and prepares, as we all do, for the flurries of September. That time when chubby flakes swirl and cling like powdered sugar in the corners of Nuna's smile.

Then new sounds begin to flourish...giggles and squeals and shouts. Everywhere, children rapturously bounce on their Nuna's knees. Sliding down her slippery skirts, they yell, "Again! Let's do it again!"

Nuna smiles a weary smile and lets them play while they still can. She knows the sun is coming slower and hanging lower every day.

I'm sorry I was remiss, failing to introduce her by name, but this is Nuna.

She is the land.

And now you know.

I'm still here...

2008-10-10T22:38:00.004-08:00

What can I say? Things are pretty crazy right now and, as much as I have wanted to, I just haven't been able to get photos loaded or get my thoughts down in any form that makes sense. The photo I've posted here is from a couple of days ago. I hope to share more very soon.

As I write this, it's almost 10:45 p.m. and I'm still at school. We are hosting a volleyball tournament that began this afternoon and will conclude tomorrow around noon. Our principal is out of town and the first choice for "acting principal" is gone as well, so the task fell to me. I'm probably being overly cautious at this point, but I didn't want to leave until the visiting students began to wind down a little. So I'm still here. In a few minutes, I'll do one more door check and then head home.

Sporting events work a little differently up here. Participation requires a higher level of commitment from school staff than it does out there on the road system. In a school district covering roughly 88,000 square miles, teams are forced to travel great distances to compete with other schools. Everything revolves around flight schedules and weather. Overnighting at the hosting school is always involved and that means meals must be prepared, classrooms must be used for sleeping quarters, and staff members are called upon to go above and beyond the ordinary call of duty in the midst of unpredictable circumstances.

In March, we'll be hosting the regional basketball tournament and prom here in Atqasuk. We'll be feeding and housing four to five teams, their coaches, and additional high school students who don't play basketball, but will be attending the prom. We hosted this event six years ago and, I'm here to tell you, it's a HUGE undertaking. Just coordinating trips to and from the airport requires strategy and dedicated manpower.

For tonight, though, we're only dealing with one small group of kids from Kaktovik. They flew about 400 miles to be here and they've been a good group. Our kids have had a good time with them, both competing and socializing. Tonight, the student council hosted a dance that started out being more of a "stand" than a dance, but everyone loosened up toward the end and seemed to have fun.

So, now it's 11:33 p.m. I just made my rounds and everything is locked up and quiet. The classroom where our visitors are sleeping is dark. They appear to have settled in for the night. I'm heading home to my poor neglected dog, a hot bath, and my pillow.

Breakfast and the morning volleyball matches are only a few hours away.

One Trip Around the Sun

2008-09-23T18:23:00.005-08:00

It's hard to believe that a whole year has passed since I timidly clicked "publish post" for the first time. The truth is, I was slightly terrified. I remember thinking that I would probably run out of photos or things to say within a month. Yet, here it is, twelve months later and there still seems to be plenty to share. And I'm so thankful for the chance to do just that...share. Being able to point the camera and capture even a fraction of the beautiful and amazing things that surround me is something I enjoy. Being able to share those beautiful and amazing things is something I cherish.

I can't let this day pass without thanking those without whom The Buggy Side of the Dog would not exist. Steve, author of Balance, first introduced me to the concept of personal blogging with his insightful and entertaining sliver of cyberspace. Through Steve's blog, I met Peggy, author of Kayak Paddle Tales, who encouraged me to carve out a space of my own. Then my dear friend, Kathy (who doesn't have a blog yet, but should), chimed in and that pretty much sealed the deal. I must admit that it didn't take much convincing. Though I couldn't have put it into words quite yet, I was looking for a way to share my view of this place.

My hope is that the view I've offered has been focused and fair.

My joy has been sharing my treasures...through the lens of my camera and the lens of my heart.

Thank you for being a part of that joy!

Something Amazing

2008-09-16T21:31:00.008-08:00

This video clip was shot by Doug Armstrong, a new teacher here in Atqasuk. A few weeks ago, he discovered something strange swimming along the edge of the Arctic Ocean in Barrow. I've seen jellyfish along the Arctic coast before, but never anything like this! It looks more like something featured on Pure Florida than here! In lieu of an official identification, Doug has dubbed this mysterious creature a "technicolor sea corndog." As far as I know, there's no stick involved. :)

Note: When I viewed the video on YouTube there was an option to "watch in high quality" linked just below the volume button. If this version is too pixelated, I definitely recommend checking it out on the website directly...click here

End of a Season

2008-08-29T05:08:00.012-08:00

How often do I cling

to stem

vine

fearful, in releasing,

some loss

find?

Wind, a graceful partner,

sways hearts

dance.

Sweetness only ripens,

given

the

chance.

The Wind softly beckons.

Freely

let

go.

No more decreasing, my

heart must

bold!

Summer is waning, so

changes

must

come.

Only in losing may

some things

won.

Changes

2008-08-23T15:58:00.000-08:00

Boxes in, boxes out, boxes emptied, boxes filled...my life is a jumble of cardboard at the moment. Lots of changes are in the works. I won't bore everyone with all the details, but a few of the highlights include: my sister and her family moving into my house, me moving out and into district housing, switching from teaching elementary to secondary grades, and a whole new faculty & administration at school. Whew!

Another change has been especially difficult to talk about. And I've put off blogging about it for several weeks. Over the summer, I decided to allow my dog, Precious, to be adopted. It's something that I'd been thinking about for a while, but had been reluctant to actually follow through with because Precious is....well....precious!

The problem is that the Arctic is a seriously confining place during the winter months and Precious doesn't do confinement very well. She practically climbed the walls all last winter which led to some destructive behavior. Over the summer I decided that either I'd need to find a home where she'd be cared for and have the opportunity to get regular exercise or I'd have to buy a treadmill and hope she'd be willing to try it. I was leaning toward the treadmill when I heard there was a couple in Fairbanks interested in adopting her. They took her for a "test drive" while I was on vacation. When I got back to Alaska, I met them at their home and found that Precious was happy and healthy and having lots of fun...

...exactly the kind of place Precious needs to be.

So, it's done. Precious lives in Fairbanks now in a great home with two wonderful new parents who are ready, willing, and able to make sure she goes to bed tired every day. That's a good thing and on some level I am very happy about it. Of course, I am completely grateful to have found a loving family with whom Precious will enjoy her life rather than experience frustration eight months of the year. But the thought of life here without her quirky little personality and hilarious antics...just makes me sad.

I'll have to revisit this photo often to remind myself that it was the right thing to do.